|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 175'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Matt Swartz on Apr 22, 2009|
|Comments on My Time||Add Comment|
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Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
The first two pitches are nice but route finding is definitely an issue on the 3rd pitch. Once you get above the ramp you are looking at a sea of fairly dense bolt-shaped lichen and there are no anchors in sight. I clipped a really old pin (the one mentioned in the book?) in the first shelf just above the belay then headed straight up and maybe slightly right (as described in the book) hoping the route would appear. About maybe 30-40 feet up I finally saw the gleam of a bolt but it seemed much further left than expected so I ended up running it out toward the tree over the hump by traversing right and then heading up. The angle is low and the climbing is not hard but all the lichen makes the footing uncertain places and there is no real protection for that variation. So all in all the climb kind of disappears into the lichen after the 2nd pitch and seems a little contrived. I wouldnt recommend the third pitch unless someone knows the right way up (or is really into runout lichen pinching).
One other note: the hornets nest a friendly climber warned us had been in the tree near the end of the 1st pitch appears to be gone.
Great view though.