Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
MY TAPE GLOVES SUCK
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Apr 2, 2016
Hey guys. I've just in the past couple of years I have gotten really into crack climbing. Specifically desert splitters. I frequent Indian Creek now, and living is Western CO there is much crack to be had.

My number one problem is that I use so much friggin tape. The reason being is that I never want to reuse my tape gloves. I make them, spend a good amount of time trying to make them perfect, and I am typically as meticulous as I can be. The issue is that no matter what I do, they always roll up on me when I'm jamming hands. It's difficult to explain but the side that is parallel to my fingers on the outside of the back of my palm, will roll on me, and create this weird feeling bulge or bump. I want to know how I avoid this. I've tried wrapping the tape back around the end of my gloves, and anything else I can think of. I always have this problem. How do I avoid it?

Also, it might be helpful to explain how I construct my gloves. I take one strip and put it on the back of my knuckles, where I tend to get a lot of gobies. then I use 3 strips going from there down to the bottom of my wrist to cover the rest of my hand. And then, to secure it I wrap one strip from my wrist up around my pointer finger, and back to my wrist. I do the same with my pinky finger, and then I tie it all together with a couple wraps around my wrist.

please tell me if I need to change how I tape my hands at all to avoid my gloves rolling up on me! Or maybe a sweet hint to avoid this. Thanks All!
Nicholas King 1
From Grand Junction, Colorado
Joined Apr 14, 2014
22 points
Apr 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: The one they call The Husky, Natasha Holliday, Esq...
I tape the way that Steph Davis describes on her site:

stephdavis.co/blog/how-to-tape...

The only difference is that besides a strip around the index finger, I add one around the ring finger (based on the pictures on her site, I think she has really small hands so she can get away without that extra strip). Everything else is the same. It's secure all day and never rolls on me. Her method is not meant for constructing a reusable tape glove; you'll have to do something else if you want to make something that you can reuse.

Also, use sticky tape. I get Eurotape from my local climbing shop which I find to be much better than the easily available alternatives (Metolius and drugstore brands).
Dave Holliday
Joined Feb 3, 2003
1,283 points
Apr 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me redpointing Power Series. This route is amazing...
+1 for the Steph meth. C. Archibald
Joined Apr 15, 2012
781 points
Apr 2, 2016
What about using Ocun Crack Gloves? Graham Johnson
Joined Apr 27, 2006
1 points
Apr 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: We shall continue with style
Is that better than Walter White's shiet?!?^^^ BigB
From Red Rock, NV
Joined Feb 18, 2015
311 points
Apr 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: en route to wham ridge  Photo by Carl Schnitker
3 options:

1 Go bareback. It's a good kind of pain
2 Get a pare of hand jammies or other reusable tape gloves
3 Tape better

Also, get some tincture of benzoin. It helps the tape stick to your hands better and also has other uses, such as treating blisters on trails.
eli poss
From Durango, Co
Joined May 9, 2014
422 points
Apr 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...
I like Steph's method. It's simple, easy, and quick. Never got into the reusable tape glove thing, as I tend to wreck mine by the end of a session. Tape is cheap. Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
178 points
Apr 2, 2016
I do a horseshoe strip around each finger, a wrap around the knuckles on the dorsum of your hand, and then another reinforcing strap over everything at the wrist. Be patient, make sure everything lies flat, and trim up the edges at the wrist when you're done. You can re-use by cutting the wrist strap on the palm side of your hand and sliding the whole thing off your fingers. I've had a pair last a whole week at the Creek. Jimmy Sledd
From Bozeman, Montana
Joined Mar 7, 2013
17 points
Apr 3, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Smile for the camera.  Me topping out of Pice of C...
I've been crack climbing for about five years now and found the method below to work quite well. It's simple, durable, and can be done without using much tape.

m.youtube.com/watch?v=BnFJ87Zw...
Chad Miller
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Nov 8, 2006
149 points
Apr 3, 2016
Graham Johnson wrote:
What about using Ocun Crack Gloves?


This is my preferred solution.
David Gibbs
From Ottawa, ON
Joined Aug 18, 2010
10 points
Apr 3, 2016
Graham Johnson wrote:
What about using Ocun Crack Gloves?


I tried these the other day. I have very average size hands.

For cracks less than tight 2's, they were terrible. I knew they would screw up the fit but I was shocked as to how much.

For cracks of solid 2 (or 3 friend) and larger, they were very nice. I didn't expect to like them that much but I did.

Since the vast majority of my crack climbing is bare handed and 3's are annoying, I could see getting a pair to go into my pack just for those sizes.


Back to the OP, experiment. Use pretape spray. Tape your thumb and thumb meat before the rest of your hand. Try to keep all areas down to 2 layers of tape. Flex your hand repeatedly while taping to keep it from getting too tight. Tape from strips, not directly off the roll. Don't worry about going through lots of tape, any worthwhile tape job is not reusable.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
From Colorado
Joined Oct 29, 2012
43 points
Apr 3, 2016
Reusable tape gloves are really only useful for for wide hand cracks and the wider stuff unless you have the hands of a 10 year old. If you do any serious hand cramming your going to experience the dreaded tape roll or you are just making the climbing a lot harder then it needs to be.

Use euro tape and keep the tape thin, use the power x method similar to Stephs or a variation. The only people that use reusable tape gloves at Indian Creek are newbs or people that don't climb anything smaller than #2 camalots.

The other option is to not tape and develop good technique and toughen the back of your hands like leather. However this usually ends badly for those new to crack climbing and you end up with lots of gobies and scar tissue.
Highlander
From Ouray, CO
Joined Apr 14, 2008
265 points
Apr 3, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: After a very very damp and cold evening climbing o...
I do what Tom Randall does

My gloves are fucking monsters though super thick i put on lots of base bits of tape and after the first use i will turn them inside out and tape the inside, they are beasts and handle the super shart cheese grater granite of my local climbing well.
that guy named seb
Joined Oct 24, 2015
182 points
Apr 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: blah
Tape is aid. In all seriousness, Jammie are th shit except for thin hands. I only tape for thin hands using. Boxer wrap with tincture of benzoine. Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Joined Dec 19, 2011
127 points
Apr 14, 2016
Are there any good gloves out there besides tape? I can see the draw to tape being good friction. Mark lewin
Joined Jun 30, 2015
5 points
Apr 14, 2016
I like these crack gloves:
Obrworks gloves
Mike Citellus
Joined Dec 7, 2015
24 points
Apr 14, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...
Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:
Tape is aid. In all seriousness, Jammie are th shit except for thin hands. I only tape for thin hands using. Boxer wrap with tincture of benzoine.


By that logic, so are shoes.
Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
178 points
Apr 14, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Agassiz
Ted Pinson wrote:
By that logic, so are shoes.


Whoosh...
Ryan Nevius
From Estes Park, Colorado
Joined Dec 29, 2010
991 points
Apr 14, 2016
Outdoor Research's new crack gloves are awesome, they hold up well too now that they stitch the wrists. I got some for using at the gym as they're quicker to put on them tape, tried them outside once and haven't gone back to tape since. Bonus is they're so light I'll clip'em to me harness on multi's in case you need them, I've even put them on mid-pitch before at a stance.
outdoorresearch.com/en/crack-g...
pooch
Joined Jan 27, 2011
59 points
Apr 14, 2016
Best thing about the OR gloves is they are only a bit thicker than tape, so they don't get in the way for thin hands cracks like Hand Jammies, Ocuns and Singing Rocks do... ymmv Tapas
From Utah
Joined Feb 8, 2010
120 points
Apr 18, 2016
yeah.. I have seen those OR gloves but I haven't heard too much about them yet. I'm glad you guys like them, maybe I'll give them a try. I just don't know too many other people that have them either so I have skeptical. Nicholas King 1
From Grand Junction, Colorado
Joined Apr 14, 2014
22 points
Apr 19, 2016
Nicholas King 1 wrote:
yeah.. I have seen those OR gloves but I haven't heard too much about them yet. I'm glad you guys like them, maybe I'll give them a try. I just don't know too many other people that have them either so I have skeptical.


My partner tried the OR gloves last season after wearing out the velcro on ocuns, he was much happier with the thinner profile of the OR gloves.

I've been doing most of my cragging on finer grained granite w/o gloves or tape. Did a multi-pitch last week that has two LONG stellar hand crack pitches, used the ocun gloves on the first pitch that is mostly #2 and they were great. On the second pitch that is mostly #1 I ended up taking them off despite the rough texture. I felt much more secure being able to get more of my hand in like I do cragging. I think that I will be going to the OR glove for alpine now also.

Those ocuns are really nice on #3 size though.
Nick Drake
From Newcastle, WA
Joined Jan 20, 2015
393 points
Apr 19, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Darren sticking the second crux move Photo credit:...
Belay gloves if its a lot of rough big hand stuff otherwise I tape a few fingers Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
4,101 points
Apr 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Euphorie M8
A point not mentioned is quality of your tape, don't know if you can find this in your part of the woods but they last LONGER than any other tape I've found.

Renfrew Hockey tape
canadiantire.ca/fr/pdp/3m-whit...
Theriault
From Quebec, Quebec
Joined Apr 13, 2011
321 points
Administrator
Apr 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Moby dick 5.11-
Theriault wrote:
A point not mentioned is quality of your tape, don't know if you can find this in your part of the woods but they last LONGER than any other tape I've found. Renfrew Hockey tape canadiantire.ca/fr/pdp/3m-whit...


I agree. By far the best tape I've used.
Dom
From New Brunswick Canada
Joined Dec 8, 2007
1,199 points
Apr 22, 2016
A unique problem requires a unique solution. I've found a pretty slick use of old, punctured mountain bike tubes that solves this problem pretty well. If you cut off a rectangular piece of the tube and build your tape glove around that it works like a charm, never rolls or bunches on the edges, and gives you a little extra cushioning. I've caught some grief from some crusty, old, sadistic climbers who assure me the only way to go is bare back, but I'd rather be comfortable while I'm cruising splitters and return to camp not dripping blood.

The rectangular piece of rubber should be cut to about the same size as the back of your hand, and the secret trick is to add a little super glue to the top of the rubber before taping over the top of it. This makes the tape stick like a charm, and prevents the rolling and bunching that causes pressure points.

Not to mention, it provides some pretty glorious cushioning for slightly feminine, smaller hands. And all of a sudden those #3's feel a lot tighter!
Michael Sweeney
Joined Jan 1, 2014
3 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>