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My Sweet Alecia Marie (Bouldering Variation V1) 
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My Sweet Alecia Marie (Bouldering Variation V1) 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b Hueco: V1 Font: 5 X

   
Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b Hueco: V1 Font: 5 X [details]
FA: MountainManny
New Route: Yes
Season: Nearly Year Round
Page Views: 39
Submitted By: MountainManny on Feb 4, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Facing the start of "My Sweet Alecia Marie (B...

Description 

Do not cheat the sit start!!!! You are only cheating yourself and will be missing all the fun. A great combination of crack and slab climbing. The crack flares from fingers to hands in places with great moves on excellent rock.

SDS at the slightly overhanging, obvious crack...this is the goods and offers aesthetic moves start to finish.

From a SDS, you will work through the slightly overhanging crack starting at the base of the wall (which trends up and to your left) onto the slabby face to meet back up with the main crack (which trends up and right).

Layback...stuff, jam, & crank...do whatever you must to pull through the start. From here, the sailing is smoother for a few moves.

The main crack starts and stays wide fingers to hands until about 3/4's of the way up the face where it pinches off to slab.

The end of the crack brings you to committing and exposed slab.
This ends with crux moves coming with your commitment to move out (climber's right) onto the blank face and another crux following with a mantle over the bulge to top out(go up and left if you are not comfortable with climbing on 5.10+ slab).

Don't peel on the slab topping out...the fall would probably suck.

You got up, you can get down...walk, rap..there's options.

This is a H.B. problem, so take note if you boulder it.

Location 

It is the obvious crack on the right side of the crag.

This is the bouldering variation and start of "My Sweet Alecia Marie".

The walk-off is an exposed scramble to the climber's right.

Protection 

Pads and friends for this one.

It is a HB with potential fall hazards below the climb.

Alternately, you can lead the entire climb "My Sweet Alecia Marie".


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