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My Obsession 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Darrell Hensel and Kevin Powell, 1987
Page Views: 401
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Sep 2, 2008

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The start of the slick crystal dike on My Obsessio...


This is a challenging edging problem up the faint right leaning dike on the right hand side of the boulder. The crux is the sequence of moves passing the second bolt on its left, and involves some steep tricky moves on super slick quartz crystals. Above the last bolt wander up the increasingly easy face to the summit.

The second clip is thin, a quick clip setup with a runner might be a good idea in order to stay off the ground. The second bolt could have been placed a few moves lower but then it wouldn't have adequately protected the next section given the proximity of the ground. Given the need for the bolt to be were it is, the placing of the bolt was quite entertaining on the FA, with falls being taken to get it in (good job by KP).


The rightmost route on the face.


Four bolts.

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By johannsolo
From: So Cal
4 days ago

Great, thin edge crankin. Very good ground up bolt job, spicy, but safe with an attentive belay. Been years since I was on this route and it seemed hard then and now. Real 12a.

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