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Unsorted Routes:

My Mind Is A Blank 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: [Henry Barber?]
Page Views: 3,306
Submitted By: Bjorn on Jul 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Dan starting up My Mind Is A Blank.


My Mind Is A Blank is definitely the proudest climb on the main cliff of CR.

This route takes on the proud, scantly featured face beneath a looming roof. Climb good edges and crimp in tiny slots to static or dyno (dyno may be easier as the edges get polished) to the massive horizontal. From there use small pockets and slopers to position your self under the roof. Get your feet high and gun for the good jug at the lip, then crank to a small slopey slot and finish. If you were to lead the route, this is the point where you would hug the tree trunk and scamper to safety with heavy breathing and a palpitating heart.

NOTE: As of early October 2008, the partially fallen tree that had been used as a TR anchor has become a more fully fallen tree. Other trees and/or clean gear anchoring possibilities remain farther back from the cliff's edge, but the ease of double slinging the tree and toproping your heart out is now a thing of the past.


This is dead center on the cliff, ten paces to the right of the Militant routes.


Most sane folks toprope this route. Trees and clean gear placements can be located and equalized atop the cliff.

The route CAN and HAS been led, however, and one look at the thing will show you that this is one of the coolest headpoints in the area, and I hope to climb it in that style at some point. A lead of this route, whether placing on lead or pink, warrants an R rating for sure, since your top piece would likely be a small cam under the roof and, in the event of a fall from the top, the system would likely only accelerate your impact into the face. If you know anyone who has led this route, you may feel compelled to kiss his or her feet.

Photos of My Mind Is A Blank Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brendan on My Mind is Blank.
Brendan on My Mind is Blank.

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By Alex C
May 17, 2010

Definitely a cool little climb that is surprisingly pumpy for its length. I did headpoint this a few years ago and didn't think the fall would have been so bad. I was more worried about blowing the start, so I used a bouldering mat at the base.
By Jcomeau
From: North Conway
Apr 18, 2014

I led this last night. It's really not that bad of a lead. Gear where you need it, and if you're worried about the deadpoint, the last move could be a real stopper.
By ben324 Solon
Sep 15, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13

It is lacking in pro up high, but I disagree that it's R rated. Maybe PG-13. In the description, it says that the last pro before pulling the roof would send you into the rock, but if you place a cam below the corner out right, you'll fall a bit farther, but you won't whip into the face.

Jcomeau, which deadpoint are you referring to? The beta I used was all static.
By Eric8
From: Maynard, MA
Feb 11, 2015

I think he just means the low crux that most people deadpoint is not actually the crux.
By ben324 Solon
Mar 5, 2015
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13

Got ya. That's for sure. It's one of those routes that gets easier as you learn the moves though. The moves through that pocket are definitively the most technical on the route.
By Graham O.
Aug 22, 2016

Awesome climb! IMO, the lower deadpoint is actually the crux.

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