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My Little Piggy 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Ty Morrison-Heath on Jun 19, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Be carefull of sharp edges on this one!

Description 

A fun climb with a stout finish My Little Piggy goes up a face that gains a few ledges and broken face systems. Follow the bolts to a bolt right before the finger crack. Place a cam in here and get your inner gymnast on! Pull this finger crack and throw a heel to top out to find the 2 bolt anchor to your right. Bring webbing for the anchor.

Location 

About 35 foot right of the large overhang in the middle of the formation. Starts above a few large boulders at the base.

Protection 

Bolts to a small finger crack that takes small cams/nuts.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Beta Photo for My Little Piggy.  Sorry for the som...
BETA PHOTO: Beta Photo for My Little Piggy. Sorry for the som...

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By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 19, 2011

As of right now the last bolt is missing so bring trad gear or risk a 40 foot fall. I did replace the anchor webbing with a piece of 7mm cord but would like to back it up with something more.
By ozman
From: CO / NM
Jun 27, 2011

My partner almost cut a rope on this route. The crux move is exiting out of the finger crack and toping out. The anchor should really be moved out on the face instead of necessitating the top out. the rope just rakes over the edge when you are traversing right to the anchor. With that said, I like this route (its got crack moves)

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