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Royal Arch Wall
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Blood Beets S 
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Meanest Flower, The S 
My Head is Broke S 
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Smidgin S 
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Unsorted Routes:

My Head is Broke 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Frizzell 2004
Page Views: 58
Submitted By: Jeff Edge on Oct 27, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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I thought this was a really great, very sustained technical climb. Epic shallow-stemming crux, sequential foot traverse. Small holds, but you don't have to pull super hard because the rock is vertical to less-than-vertical. Awesome. Climbs more like a Smith Rock 12a than most Jackson routes.


Immediately to the right of the obvious water groove feature of "The Vow."


5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

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