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My Generation 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 280'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 1,100
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Jun 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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This three pitch route combines hard crack climbing on the first pitch with some memorable bolt-protected face climbing. P3 climbs the spectacular face of the Quadrophenia rappel line, finishing on the best part of Xenolith.

P1 5.10c: Climb the right-leaning crack with some awkward laybacks and excellent gear to its top. Step left onto the nose of the rounded buttress, then go straight up past some thin, bear-hugging smears to a large ledge with a fixed anchor.

P2 5.10a: Move up and right above the anchor to the arete. Step to the right side of the arete to clip the third bolt, then back left onto the face and up to a large ledge. Place a directional, then go left to a good tree anchor.

Note: A good variation to this pitch is P2 of Hooligans (5.9): Climb the open book left of the anchor to a tree, then step right onto the black face past a bolt to the tree ledge. Excellent.

P3 5.10b: Walk left and up onto a slab. Step left on the slab (purple Camalot) and go up and slightly right on flakes to a good stance below a bolt. A small nut protects the moves to the bolt. Go straight up the face following bolts, then angle right to the open book corner of Xenolith. Go up the corner past two cedars to a large ledge; step left to the Quadrophenia anchor.


At the tow of the buttress, downhill and left of the Old Route chimney, at a right-leaning crack on the right side of the rounded buttress. This is just left of where the trail meets the cliff.


P1: 3 bolts plus standard rack to 2"; P2: 3 bolts plus a red Camalot for directional; P3: 5 bolts plus gear to 1".

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By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
May 22, 2012

Second pitch is nice. Carefull clipping the first few bolts on the third pitch, as there is ledge fall potential.
By Jim Lawyer
May 23, 2012

On P3, there's a bomber 0.5 Camalot, then a bomber nut getting to the first bolt. Pretty well-protected, in my opinion.
By KVRob
Jul 11, 2014

A whole lotta climbing on that first pitch! Every pitch of this grabs your attention.
By Nick Weinberg
From: Lyme, NH
Jun 12, 2015

Yeah, there is gear getting to the first bolt, but as I recall there are some crux moves clipping or getting to the second or third bolt. Botching this would result in a fall on that ledge.

But great climb and overall safe and very much worth doing. Three great varied pitches!

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