|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Bill Cramer, Michelle Cramer & Mike Shacklett, November 1992|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Nov 29, 2010|
|Comments on My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Apr 4, 2014
The "slot" mentioned in the description might also be called a "gully." You climb up the gully about 30 feet to the second (and larger) of two bushes. Directly to the right of the upper bush on the main face is a bolt.
Climb up past the bolt on decent scoops to reach a vertical crack where you can get gear. Continue up and then left along the crack/flake to the summit, or better yet, clip the final bolt on Pacific Ave Dorm to protect exposed moves to the summit.
You'll need cams bigger than a gold Camalot for the anchor (ie: blue, grey & purple).
Down climb the west face of the formation along a low angled crack. Scramble down boulders toward the road to reach the base of the formation.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Jan 31, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
When I did this route yesterday, I apparently did an alternative finish. Guide book says climb a gully 5th class then up to a face on the right with some huecos and 2 bolts (per guide book photo). Apparently someone added an extra bolt before you get to the huecos.
The first and only bolt I clipped made for some very airy moves going onto the face. The crux of the climb is clipping and passing this lone bolt then onto some fun face climbing protected by a crack to the top. Use #3 and #2 C4s for anchor. Nothing smaller will fit.