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Cyanide Cliff
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My dirty secret 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Devores
Page Views: 26
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Apr 29, 2014

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Description 

Awesome varied crack climb but with often less than stellar rock. In other words, do this route but make sure you do it with an attentive, loose rock savvey partner and wear your helmets, especially the belayer. The route is not called Dirty Secret for nothing but it is great climbing none the less. It's a giant left facing corner that goes on and on. Can be done in one or two pitches. Would be great to see this thing get more traffic and maybe a little cleaning up. The hardest moves for me were at the second bolt right before the first anchor getting to the ledge where the crack in the corner kinda seams out. Above the first anchor a ways there is a blank seeming section with tricky pro but the holds are incut and it turns out to be not so bad. Then higher my partner for the day found a steep tight hands section cruxy. The pitch ends at a 2 mussy anchor. We had a 70 but I think 2 raps with a 60 would get you down.

Location 

The obvious giant left facing corner.

Protection 

2 bolts but mainly pro to 3" w/ extra from red C3 to #1C4, a few draws and some extra slings.


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