My Clone Sleeps Alone
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Half way up "My Clone Sleeps Alone".
This is a slightly flared, hand crack in a right-facing dihedral. Belay on top. Walk towards Spectreman
area and make two raps to the base of Spectreman
This route is located on the left side of "The Heap" as described in Kellman's book. We climbed "Approach 4.0" to access this area. If using Approach 4.0, this is the first crack you will come to. It is in very prominent, right-facing dihedral with a 5-foot block at the base.
#0.75 Camalot, #0.5 Camalot, #2 Friend, #1 Camalot, couple of #3 Camalots (or similar) for anchor/top section.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The book calls this a hand-crack. I might have had a jam or two a few times, but this thing had more 1.25-1.5" cam placements than 2+" cam placements. I had more finger-locks than hand-jams. It is also easier than a lot of area 9s, or for that matter, easier than the 5.8 "approach pitch."