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Pirate's Cove
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
As Surely as the Flower Blooms T 
Black Panther S 
Good, the Bad, and The Boltless (High Plains Drifter variation), The T 
Indian Summer T 
Mutiny S 
Unknown T 
Unnamed 5.10a T 
Unnamed SL 7 T 

Mutiny 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Doug Cosby 1991
Page Views: 6,487
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Jeremy Steck on Mutiny.

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Mutiny is the obvious, razor-sharp overhanging arete at Pirates' Cove -- only accessible during low water. Boulder up to a high first clip, and continue clipping bolts on the right side of the arete, using holds on both sides, to a crux move near the anchors. The climb is often dirty due to high water, but it is classic nevertheless.

Protection 

6 bolts to cold shuts. If you don't have a stick, or can't reach the first from the ground, a #3 Camalot fits nicely in the horizontal before the first bolt. The climbing up to there is relatively mild.


Photos of Mutiny Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mutiny. Fall, 1999.
Mutiny. Fall, 1999.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mutiny Arete from afar
Mutiny Arete from afar
Rock Climbing Photo: Drew Davis on Mutiny, 5.11d. Photo by Nate Davey.
Drew Davis on Mutiny, 5.11d. Photo by Nate Davey.
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh J. on Mutiny 10/19/13
Josh J. on Mutiny 10/19/13
Rock Climbing Photo: Mutiny in May. There boulders below the surface of...
Mutiny in May. There boulders below the surface of...

Comments on Mutiny Add Comment
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By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Nov 11, 2014

Pretty soft for 11c, just saying.
By Jake Jones
Administrator
From: Richmond, VA
Oct 22, 2015

Those last moves though- if you don't cheat and venture left to the arete...

Felt like .11c to me. Though, I'm no Chris Whisenhunt- and Mike gives it .11d.
By Dylan Alvarez
From: Baltimore, MD
Aug 29, 2016

Anyone done this route out of a boat in high water? Could make for an incredible photo...
By jsustrich
Sep 13, 2016

Dylan, general consensus I've heard is that DWS on this one is a no-go due to submerged boulders. Unless you're meaning to belay from a boat.
By Cragmama
From: North Carolina
Sep 19, 2016

I think the 11d given in the guidebook is definitely legit, if you stay on the face at the last bolt and don't wander out left. That is a looooong move off a very tiny hold!