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Mussel Rock
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Chimney Route TR 
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Mussels For Bones 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  TR, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Ben Flores & Evan Wisheropp
New Route: Yes
Season: DRY!
Page Views: 126
Submitted By: Benjamin F on Jun 30, 2015

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Just under the crux, but the real gem is the first...


Climb a VERY aesthetic 5.10+ section off the deck, that alternates between liebacking and sweet delicate face moves.
The crux (mentally and physically) is climbing an overhung block about halfway up the route. There used to be a shake out jug before the block, but it has since been broken, which has made getting onto the block much more interesting.
Despite its appearance, the block itself is pretty solid.
There's no need to pull directly out on it, and you won't want to! Treat it like an alpine route, and be gentle.
The finish is pretty darn perplexing, I'll leave it up to you to figure it out.


On the right face of Mussel Rock, look for the clean awesome looking lieback off the deck.


Tree anchor with LOOOONG webbing. If you don't know the proper approach or TR setup, have someone show you. Minimal impact please.
Belayer is best situated well out of the way, as this route is still shedding its skin.
Wear your adventure hats!

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By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 23, 2015
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

This is an excellent adventure! Every move from bottom to top is great, minus just one sharp hold after the bulge. The finish definitely is not what you would expect! Wild!!

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