The standard for V8 according to Sherman and a classic as well. A couple of the slots are supposedly chipped out on this problem but I'm not 100% sure of I belive that, still classic none the less.
Start on the jug at the end of the low flake that goes all the way to the bottom of the boulder, one can start lower but it just turns it into a butt dragging...
Move up with either hand to start to an edge for the left or a tooth for the right. Bury the right heal toe cam to the right of where your hands started on the jug and move either right to the first "chipped" slot then cross to the second or cross off of the tooth left to either "chipped" slot. Move the right out to a good crimp, now for the first crux, releasing the heal toe while fully extended, it is possible to hold the swing but very taxing, better to step out carefully onto the point of the starting jug then up into the roof out to your left. Move up left hand to another seam and backstep the tooth to move up and right to a pretty good hold just below the lip. Step up onto the crimp that you used with your right either with a toe or a heal and catch a bad hold at the lip and bump up to a better hold. There are several ways to work your hands up over the lip but ultimately you want to get onto 2 crimpy pinches about 3 feet over the lip and your foot up onto the good hold just below the lip, from here you can stand up and grab some higher holds and top out.
Starts under the roof on the east side of the boulder of the jug at the end of the obvious flake/rail on the right side of the overhang.
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Jan 14, 2009
How is the tick list showing that someone climbed this in November of 2008. I was under the impression that the boulder was shut down due to concerns over artifacts being unearthed due to the erosion caused by the traffic it recives.
Please tell me this is not the act of an idividual who is putting their desire to climb a problem ahead of the rights of everyone to climb at Hueco. All it takes is one person gettting caught to really give the rangers that don't like up any ammo to start restricting us more.
Feb 28, 2010
word.. huecos restrictions suck ass down here. As alluring as the boulder is, we gotta stay off it - no questions. I've been down here for a week and have to go by the mushroom boulder all the time. You just gotta ::sigh:: and shake your head.
Its a damn shame