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Mushroom People 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: D Diegelmann, R. Grandstaff, G. Child, '79
Page Views: 7,191
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 2, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (114)
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Greg Jackson at the crux.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is a great route, but would not be fun in the sun. The black varnish we love as edges makes for a slick glass like surface devoid of friction or significant features in places. Still, the moves are stellar and the climb nice, long, and sustained. I had a blast on this route.

Be warned in advance, due to lack of friction and features, the grade of this climb is quite height dependent. A 5'10" climber with ape-like arms (me) or a 6'0" man will find the grade about right. It will be a little easier for the very tall and could be much harder for the very short.

Approach the Brass Wall and mark up the twin splitters on the left end, 'Topless Twins' and then look slightly left to a peerless dark face, cut by a thin crack and offset. This crack leads up 100' to a huge round hueco, and is none other than Mushroom People.

Climb up the route, placing a few pieces for a low 5.9 crux, then continue up and onward to a reachy crux at a slight offset with slippery feet. Past the crux continue up and left again with good holds, good rest and good gear to a fixed anchor.

Rap 95' to the ground on a 60M rope. 2 ropes are not necessary as per the Swain guidebook if you have a 60M.


A healthy set of stoppers including brass, plus cams from small to 3". Tricams optional. A 60M rope just makes the rap with a meter or two to spare.

Photos of Mushroom People Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: brass wall
BETA PHOTO: brass wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Contemplating the crux
Contemplating the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam Floyd at the crux.
Adam Floyd at the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan Carson  headed up Mushroom People.
Dan Carson headed up Mushroom People.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great locks and jams for the cruiser finish above ...
Great locks and jams for the cruiser finish above ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb gets started on 'Mushroom People' (10+) ...
Tony Bubb gets started on 'Mushroom People' (10+) ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux move is a bit barndoor-ish and stretchy. ...
The crux move is a bit barndoor-ish and stretchy. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another physical move to stand up on the last jug....
Another physical move to stand up on the last jug....
Rock Climbing Photo: A few physical moves to stand up on the last jug b...
A few physical moves to stand up on the last jug b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tiptoeing up to the last jug before the crux. Phot...
Tiptoeing up to the last jug before the crux. Phot...
Rock Climbing Photo: A very warm day in Red Rock 1/6/06.
A very warm day in Red Rock 1/6/06.

Comments on Mushroom People Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 5, 2017
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Dec 16, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

The 'R' comes from the potential ground fall right off the deck. Although you can get one piece in right away, your next one doesn't come for long enough to be worrisome if you're new to the 5.10 grade. That said, the climb, while long, is not that sustained- in the .8/.9 range for most of it, with the start being low .10 and the crux itself being one move of .10, maybe .10+.

This is the first .10+ in RR that i've done that i would say isn't classic- but even saying that, it's still pretty good!
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

beautifull bullet hard varnish. definately a one move wonder. might be a little heady if your not comfy at this grade.
By Anthony Anagnostou
From: nyc
Apr 20, 2006

holy cow. with the posted photos of this route, i think i could wire the crux sitting at my computer!

taking beta to the next level!
By Russ Walling
Feb 14, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Good route and a nice line. Funky little crux is a cool move. A med stopper protects the business section.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jan 2, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

So good! Protects really well too, there's a blue alien down low for the first mantely move and bomber nuts and micros at the crux. Forget about trying to blindly fidget something in at the crux...
You gotta love the complete absence of friction on the face and the squeaky sound of the rubber on that varnish!
Feb 21, 2009

I am short, had to dino to the lip.

For this reason, 4 stars, coolest move I have done on a route under 5.12

Felt harder than 10D, but my partner who is 5.8 thought it was easier.

Not an R. Great Gear the whole way.
By Blake Allen Green
Apr 5, 2011

The crux is height dependent, but my friend that's 5'0" could get a foot high enough to static the move with a little more work. Fantastic route.
By Drew Peterson
Mar 6, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

10d for me at 5'8"; it all protects very well.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 23, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

A few things: C3's or TCU's make this a safe lead. This is definitely hard no matter how tall you are really but is very well protected. My girlfriend onsighted it the "creeper" way by creeping up through the crux and then finally busted a slightly dynamic move to reach the ledge. I, on the other hand, had to burl dog my way through all the crimping bullshit and felt it was spot on for the grade.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Jan 19, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Fun route. Totally worth doing when its really cold out. My friend that's 5.9 did it with no problem. You don't need to be 5'10 with long arms to get the crux static. I'm about 5'6 and was about an inch from getting the right crimp static. I did find a mono right above the crux where everyone seems to do a layback/sidepull and then dyno for the jug straight up. It's easy breezy afterwards
By Danie White
From: SLC, UT
Jun 15, 2013

I, too, am short and had to dyno for the lip. (A tall friend sandbagged me onto this one.) The dyno was successful--and even if it hadn't been, the pro was bomber--and now I'm here to rate this climb four stars due to its beautiful varnish, snaking crack, and neat move. If you're tall, this one is probably more straight forward, but dynos on crack pitches are kinda memorable for us shorties. (I'm 5'4" and usually solid on 5.10 sandstone crack.)
By John Ryan
From: Poncha Springs, CO
Apr 1, 2014

Got on this thinking it was an easier classic, but was very glad I did! The crux can be protected well with a medium nut and/or a 00 Metolius Master Cam or TCU. Do it!
By vietgoeswest
From: Portland
Nov 9, 2015

Fellow short climbers - get your left toe in high. I'm 5'5 and didn't have to dyno to reach the lip. Very cool balancy move!
By yann gauthier
Jan 9, 2016

By Dave Alie
From: Golden, CO
Jan 5, 2017

I found the start to be reasonably well-protected despite the reputation of 5.9R off the deck. If the other climbers who came after us are any indication, it seems the standard beta is to run it out through this section, but those uninterested in dangerous climbing should look closely at the start before skipping this pitch. Off-set cams or stoppers might make finding a good placement easier, but even without I was able to find what felt to be adequate protection to the break. Extremely fun climbing throughout, highly recommended.

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