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Mush Maker 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: April-October is best
Page Views: 2,142
Submitted By: brucelacroix on May 7, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Kwasi heading up Mush Maker

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  • Description 

    The straight in hand crack. An area classic. Sustained.

    Location 

    Left of First blood. See photo.

    Protection 

    Gear to 3". Two bolt anchor.


    Photos of Mush Maker Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Leading up Mush Maker
    Ben Leading up Mush Maker
    Rock Climbing Photo: Trish TR'ing Mush Maker
    Trish TR'ing Mush Maker
    Rock Climbing Photo: From the base
    BETA PHOTO: From the base

    Comments on Mush Maker Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By cnadel
    From: Seattle, WA
    Apr 14, 2014

    This is incorrectly marked in the Washington Rock Climbing Falcon guide. They mark this climb as being to the right of the roof/teardrop face, which is actually First Blood 5.8.
    By drsoc
    Apr 25, 2014
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    It says gear to #3, but I was happy to have two #4s and even placed a #5. But I am not very experienced with wide cracks and pretty uncomfortable in them, thus need a lot of gear. I would say it's hard for a new leader. But a worthwhile route!
    By Jason Curtis
    Jul 28, 2015

    The route continues for another ~10ft of easy climbing past what you can see from the base; plan your gear accordingly. I used a #2 above the ledge.

    This route will eat all the 1s, 2s and 3s you choose to bring.
    By Max Leitner
    From: Seattle, Washington
    Jun 20, 2016
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Really fun, sustained hand and fist crack. I thought it was pretty stiff for a 5.7 but not bad lead if that's your lead limit. The crack takes gear very well.
    By Jake Douglas
    Nov 7, 2016

    Consistent secure hand jams until the crack widens to #3 size (could probably place a 4 as well) for the last quarter up the steep finish, so save your big gear for up higher. Some of the pro works best placed deep in the crack so bringing 3-5 draws isn't a bad idea. This is the steepest 5.7 hand crack I have seen and it would probably be 5.8 anywhere else.
    By Jon Nelson
    Administrator
    From: Bellingham, WA
    Nov 7, 2016

    Folks, the description says gear to 3 inches, which is the way one should always describe the gear.

    When you talk about needing a "#3", us readers don't know if you're talking about model Y of brand X or model M of brand Z. In contrast, inches never change from one manufacturer to another...

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