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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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Muscular Dystrophy 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 3,665
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 1, 2001

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Starting the route.

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  • Description 

    Up at the top of the West Ridge, this route has nice position. The first pitch is easy 5.9, then comes a nice crux. It is very technical, but not sustained, a 3-move sequence with a big gravity bill waiting for anyone who doesn't keep their eyes and mind wide open. It seems a little harder than some area 5.11a's, but again, the crux is short.

    Protection 

    The pro solid for someone of average height. The crux is a bomber small-medium (#6BD) nut placement above the head that is at the feet when the crux is completed. Take a normal rack with 2 big-hand-sized cams for the jams getting up to the crux.


    Photos of Muscular Dystrophy Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Placing gear in the crux corner. Photo: Roth.
    Placing gear in the crux corner. Photo: Roth.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Placing the bomber nut at the crux....
    Placing the bomber nut at the crux....
    Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Janes working hard to pull out of the crux of...
    Josh Janes working hard to pull out of the crux of...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Janes in the crux of Muscular Dystrophy.
    Josh Janes in the crux of Muscular Dystrophy.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Taken on Oct. 23, 2004.
    BETA PHOTO: Taken on Oct. 23, 2004.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Josh Janes entering the crux of Muscular Dystrophy...
    Josh Janes entering the crux of Muscular Dystrophy...

    Comments on Muscular Dystrophy Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 8, 2013
    By Ben F
    From: Benfield, Kolorado
    Aug 12, 2001

    I did this climb this morning. This 2 star route is a good choice for an aspiring 11- leader. The crux is not too long, not too hard and not too generic. Also, as the reviewer stated, the gear is bomber. All the pitches are short and the belay ledges are nice. It is possible to rap from some fixed slings at the top of P2 (it wouldn't hurt for someone to replace 1 of them), but the 3rd pitch is worth doing and the walk-off is very easy. For P3, basically head slightly left, then up to the crack.
    By Bryson Slothower
    May 6, 2003

    On Cinco De Mayo 2003 there was a good fixed nut at the crux.
    By david goldstein
    Jul 4, 2003
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    The first pitch is quite nice. The second pitch is an overrated one move wonder. That said, in view of the excellent pro throughout, this would be a good canidate for a first Eldo "11" lead.

    Crux is brief and awkward. May be easier for those closer to the ground.
    By Joe Collins
    Sep 22, 2003
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Very fun 5.9 climbing to a short crux. Physical jamming to a hard move. I agree with Tony... there are definitely easier 11a's at Eldo.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Mar 27, 2004
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    There is a new fixed nut at the crux. My partner logged a little air time. Next time, I will bring only a #3 and #3.5 Camalot for the wide crack. The 3.5 fits in a pod at the end of the wide crack.
    By Mark Ferguson
    May 17, 2004
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Fixed nut is no longer there, it came out easily with the poke of a nut tool.
    By adam francis
    Jun 14, 2004
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    There is currently a microwave sized very loose block on the belay ledge beneath the crux. It seems the whole ledge has recently undergone some erosion that has loosened up the block. If someone can safley trundle it, it would be good public service. If you are climbing the first pitch, be really careful when you get to the ledge
    By Shane Zentner
    From: Colorado
    Oct 3, 2004

    Challenging and difficult. (2) #3 Camalots under the crux, a blue Alien at the crux.
    By FCJohn
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Oct 23, 2006

    Agreed with above. A good route for someone looking to break into 11s at Eldo.

    Short technical crux which isn't powerful, just sequency with good gear.
    By Bill Flaherty
    From: Evergreen, CO
    Oct 14, 2009

    One more gear option at the crux: a little red C3. I can attest to the fact that this placement will hold 185 downward-bound pounds. Agreed that it's good for the aspiring 11- leader in that the gear is so solid at the short crux.
    By Brent Apgar
    From: Out of the Loop
    Nov 21, 2010

    +1 on Guy H's beta. I like using an old style 3.5 cam in the pod at the end of the crack. It's a tight fit but a new #4 C4 also works in the same place.
    By slim
    Administrator
    Nov 22, 2010
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    I've done this one a few times, and something interesting that I noticed - if the sun is shining on it, for some reason I have a harder time seeing certain holds (like the important ones...). Kind of weird. Agree with those above who recommend for an entry level 11 at Eldo, as the protection is very good.
    By Devan Johnson
    Feb 24, 2011
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Gets my vote for the softest 11 at Eldo....
    By mtoensing
    From: Boulder
    Nov 13, 2011
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    I'm surprised that this climb doesn't get more stars. All of the rock is really good. It is short though. The crux was really straightforward for me, not awkward at all. I climbed the upper crack straight in with both feet in the crack. Anchor up top is in good shape.
    By climberboy228 Romano
    Jun 8, 2013

    My first 11a lead in Eldo...seemed like a good place to start. Did pitches 1/2 together and was able to rappel with a 60m rope from the top of pitch 2, just after the crux. I placed a 3 and a 3.5 in the top of the wide crack just below where the crack disappears. Then I pulled up and used a face hold to the left and then right before swinging my feet up an over to the right. My partner thought I might be off route. Any comments?

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