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North Buttress of Cathedral
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beer Gut T 
Double Down T 
Family Flake T 
Garden Party T 
Grand Central T 
Hops'n'Barley T 
Metal Pecker T 
Muscle Fat T 
Party of Two T 
Pedestal Center TR 
Slab Time T 
Small Arch Left Side TR 

Muscle Fat 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Alan Rees, Ben Townsend, Dorcas Miller, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: Ben Townsend on Aug 18, 2015

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Scramble as high as comfortable on the easy slab and establish a gear belay.

P. 1: Wander up easy slabs with little pro to a small ledge just left of the downward-facing point. Gear belay. 5.3, 200'.

P. 2: Follow the arching corner up and left to an obvious wide crack that breaks through a short headwall. Up this (crux) to double cracks on the lower-angled slabs above. Gear belay; if you stretch out the rope, there's a small stance with a decent crack (and you can probably finish in one more pitch instead of two), but you won't be able to see your partner on the crux. 5.7, 100-200'.

P. 3: Follow the double cracks up to the ledge and bolted anchor at the top of Beer Gut. 5.4, 100-200+' (depending where you ended the second pitch). The gear is a bit spaced and thoughtful, but OK.

Rappel Beer Gut with two ropes. You won't be able to see the station at the bottom of the first rappel until you're some distance down.

A quality, moderate line. The wide crack section is short, and pretty reasonable.


Same start as Family Flake, about 100' left of Beer Gut and directly below where a left-facing corner (on the left) and a right-facing corner (on the right) converge to form a downward-facing point.


Standard rack plus cams to 5"; extra thin cams or Tricams are nice. Two ropes for the rappel down Beer Gut. The only fixed gear is the anchor at the top (shared with Beer Gut).

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