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Muscle Beach 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ray Snead, Matt Hale, 1975
Page Views: 2,117
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Second pitch of Muscle Beach, just about to enter ...


P1: Follow the crack system over easy terrain for about 15 ft and then start trending left to reach the overhang. Once you reach the roof, place a good piece and cut around left to reach a hand crack(5.10). Follow crack to shuts. (This pitch frequently stays dry in a light rain.)

P2: From the anchors, head up and right to reach a pair of cracks. Climb the cracks (crux) to reach a stance. You can place tons of gear here if you can get your hands free! Continue straight up to reach an overhang, pass it on the left and then diagonal right toward the anchors below the SJM traverse ledge.

P3: This is also the SJM Overhang Finish. From the anchors, continue up and over a large ledge. Climb up and right aiming for a large roof split by a crack system. Place good gear at the base of the roof and gun it up and over the lip. Easy but wild finish!

You can rap down with double ropes via the SJM anchors to the right of the finish.


This route is located about 15 ft uphill from the start of Sixth Sense. Start at a cluster of trees near a crack system.


Gear #2 Camalot and less. More nuts and small stuff and a few tight hands sized pieces. Shuts at each belay, no anchors above the 3rd pitch. This route can be extremely well protected.

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