Solo up as high as you dare, then probably 3 long pitches with the last lead being the crux. Pick the best ice, but you should end up on the right side on top.
The approach to this climb is a full on hike. Even will little snow or a beaten path - it is a long way up to the climb. Makes for a full day.
Park just over 5 miles south of the river crossing (junction with hwy 11) where a drainage comes down and under the road. Walk up this drainage until it is better to move north into the trees. This is a long hike and if fresh snow - could take hours
Others suggested that it could be windy on top. Correct!!
We found gale force and sustained winds when topping out - enough that we could hardly stand up and could not communicate except with sign language. Not a place to be searching around for the rap anchors very long.
Screws, probably more square feet of ice on this singular falls than all the ice in Provo Canyon put together. It is huge and thick.
BETA PHOTO: Murchison Falls in the middle. My Daddy's a Psycho...
From the top (near the rap anchor) looking down on...
Yeah, the wind blows over the top. Wild and wicke...
Murchison Falls from where you break out of the tr...
By Vikram Sahney
Aug 28, 2016
Video of a variation on Murchinson Falls, on a route called But My Daddy's a Psycho which shares the same final pitch and descent.