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Mount Murchison
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
But My Daddy's a Psycho T 
Murchison Falls 
Virtual Reality T 

Murchison Falls 

WI4-5

   
Type:  Ice, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original: WI4-5 [details]
FA: 
Season: Nov - April
Page Views: 613
Submitted By: RKM on Mar 5, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Bruce Hendricks, final pitch

Description 

Solo up as high as you dare, then probably 3 long pitches with the last lead being the crux. Pick the best ice, but you should end up on the right side on top.

Location 

The approach to this climb is a full on hike. Even will little snow or a beaten path - it is a long way up to the climb. Makes for a full day.

Park just over 5 miles south of the river crossing (junction with hwy 11) where a drainage comes down and under the road. Walk up this drainage until it is better to move north into the trees. This is a long hike and if fresh snow - could take hours

Others suggested that it could be windy on top. Correct!!

We found gale force and sustained winds when topping out - enough that we could hardly stand up and could not communicate except with sign language. Not a place to be searching around for the rap anchors very long.

Protection 

Screws, probably more square feet of ice on this singular falls than all the ice in Provo Canyon put together. It is huge and thick.


Photos of Murchison Falls Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Murchison Falls in the middle. My Daddy's a Psycho...
BETA PHOTO: Murchison Falls in the middle. My Daddy's a Psycho...
Rock Climbing Photo: From the top (near the rap anchor) looking down on...
From the top (near the rap anchor) looking down on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Yeah, the wind blows over the top.  Wild and wicke...
Yeah, the wind blows over the top. Wild and wicke...
Rock Climbing Photo: Murchison Falls from where you break out of the tr...
Murchison Falls from where you break out of the tr...

Comments on Murchison Falls Add Comment
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By Vikram Sahney
Aug 28, 2016

Video of a variation on Murchinson Falls, on a route called But My Daddy's a Psycho which shares the same final pitch and descent.