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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 4,163
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 7, 2001

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  • Description 

    This is the 3rd route from the left side of the Catslab between "Old..." and "Rumple Teaser".

    The route follows the left side of a black streak up the slab. The climbing is very enjoyable on this route. At the 5th/6th bolt, stick to the bolt line, don't head about 6 feet left or you will skip the best moves on the route, small crimps with small feet. I think the original line goes left to the quartz block. This variation may be 5.10b?

    This is very enjoyable, like many of the routes at the Catslab. Enjoy!


    10 bolts - 2 bolt anchor approximately 95 feet from lower off. I would suggest 2 ropes, also for other routes at Catslab.

    Photos of Mungajerry Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: 1. Skimbleshanks, 8-. 2. Old Deuteronomy, 9. 3. Mu...
    BETA PHOTO: 1. Skimbleshanks, 8-. 2. Old Deuteronomy, 9. 3. Mu...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Follow the green....
    Follow the green....
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climb the quartz!
    Climb the quartz!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fun start on Mungajerry.
    Fun start on Mungajerry.
    Rock Climbing Photo: About 2/3 of the way up standing on the sweet quar...
    BETA PHOTO: About 2/3 of the way up standing on the sweet quar...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Below the crux.  Photo by Jerry Miller.
    Below the crux. Photo by Jerry Miller.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Mungajerry.  Photo by Jerry Miller.
    Leading Mungajerry. Photo by Jerry Miller.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The steep start....
    The steep start....
    Rock Climbing Photo: Phil P leading, 4-2-11.
    Phil P leading, 4-2-11.

    Comments on Mungajerry Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 4, 2017
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 5, 2002
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Cool quartz on this rock, but it's 5.9 at most.
    By Hill
    Jun 26, 2002

    I thought this was a very enjoyable climb. It has two distinct cruxes, which I felt were both 5.10a. It is more difficult than the other 5.10a on the far right side of the slab. "Might as well, might as well...."
    By John Keller
    Oct 29, 2002

    Be careful following the description that suggests moving directly up through some small face moves at one point rather than left to the quartz. While the thin face moves are certainly more interesting the crux is done with the last clip almost at your feet and a quartz ledge within striking distance below. If you come off on the face move, it will be difficult to keep from toeing the ledge. (Wasn't the cat named Mungo Jerry in the musical?)
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    Apr 19, 2004

    This route packs a nice punch of variety -- overhanging start, climb through some pockets, climb the funky quartz, and finish with thin moves to just below the anchors.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 28, 2005

    Sweet route, the beginning goes real quick, but some moments of confusion towards the top...I'd say 5.10a just because of these. Fun route though
    By Top Rope Hero
    From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
    Apr 5, 2010
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Yes. By all means, skip the quartz for the full 5.10 effect.

    (Big. Dramatic. Sigh.) Which pretty much goes against my entire argument on the ratings controversy for "Gus." (Sigh again.) Who knew I was so inconsistent?
    By Dave Clark 5.10
    From: Golden, CO
    Aug 25, 2010
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    I thought that thin move at the last bolt was worthy of a 10a rating. Must have been easy for Leo, but he was young back then and had strong fingernails. Our 60 meter rope made back to the ground with a couple feet to spare.
    By Ken McVicker
    Mar 15, 2012

    I skipped the big quartz at the top and stayed right. It was definitely shaky and a bit thin for the hands. Lots of smearing and delicate balancing. Much harder than using the quartz.
    By Doug Redosh
    From: Golden, CO
    Apr 10, 2013

    The top move is 10a - 10b IMHO, but I have had a few months off from climbing. I wonder if a small hold broke off between 2005 and now. Much harder than the other 9s on the cliff.
    By mountainhick
    From: Black Hawk, CO
    Jul 11, 2013

    Led this today straight up for the first time without heading left to the big crystal bailout. Seems like 5.10 a/b. Actually harder than Rumple Teaser.
    By Casey Gunther
    From: Colorado
    Aug 1, 2013
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Definitely agree with previous posts that this route is a .10a given that the climber stays off the crystal.
    By Travis Drake
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 25, 2013

    Nevermind the crystals. The water coming straight down the crux of this route, filling the hands and feet with puddles, were of a greater concern (late August). Had to veer left (probably off route) and lean back into clip the anchors.

    Also, I disagree with Leo, it's a solid 10. I guess we aren't all old-n-nasty strongmen!
    By Alexey Dynkin
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 24, 2014

    FYI, the hanger on the first bolt was spinning freely as of 11/22/14, and the bolt itself looked like it was 1/2 way out. Kind of unnerving, considering the nasty groundfall potential if you blow the move going over the bulge.
    By Noah Yetter
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Nov 22, 2015

    My first attempt at a 10a lead. First 3/4 or so are very enjoyable ~5.9 climbing, then it gets slabby. The face between the last bolt and the anchors struck me as completely blank, and the rock is too vertical at that point for friction moves. I had to bail onto the route to the right, top out, then scoot back over to the anchors.
    By Shepido
    From: CO
    May 15, 2016

    The first bolt sticks out about 1/4" from the rock with the sleeve of the bolt mushroomed behind it, it could probably used to be replaced.
    By Noah Yetter
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jun 4, 2017

    Had another go at this today and did worse. Ugh.

    I don't like the way this route is bolted. There are a number of good solid rest stances, but at each one it seems like the last bolt is below your feet and the next one is out of reach. I'm sure it's someone's idea of a good time making terrifyingly thin slab moves with a 20-foot fall on the line, but it's not mine.

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