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Hoback Shield Right
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Above Electric Shower S 
Electric Shower S 
Muff Buster S 
Mulvado Edge (Electric Arch) S 
She's Gotta Have It! S 

Mulvado Edge (Electric Arch) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Greg Miles?
Page Views: 684
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Dec 27, 2007

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Description 

No real crux to this bad boy, just fun movement. I'm not sure of this route's name, but I've heard it called Electric Arch. I'm also fairly certain Greg Miles established it (he developed Electric Shower's second pitch, which went in around the same time).
Anyway, this pretty much follows the corner and arete of the arch that forms the roof of Electric Shower. Some interesting liebacking and ramp-crawling. Can be a little dirty.

Location 

Right of Muff Buster.

Protection 

Bolts, 2-bolt anchor (same as for Electric Shower).


Comments on Mulvado Edge (Electric Arch) Add Comment
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By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 4, 2008

This is called Mulvado Edge in the Dramis guide. Whatever it's called, it's a pretty decent climb. If you stay right at the top and finish at the anchors on top of Electric Shower, you can continue into the second pitch of Electric Shower for one long pitch that takes about 17-18 draws. A 70-meter rope will get you within a few feet of the ground, just right of the base of Electric Shower where it is easy to down scramble. The second pitch of Electric Shower is, in my opinion, only 5.11a if you stick very true to the bolt line. Instead, you can wander around on big holds, always within arm's reach of the bolts for a pitch that is more in the 10- or mid-10 range. That way, it makes the entire Mulvado Edge/Electric Shower 2nd pitch a fine, moderate, long climb.
By Dapper Dan Rogers
From: Driggs, ID
Jun 2, 2014

There's a new 4 bolt direct finish, starting at bolt 5 on Mulvado. Have fun with it. Think 11b was thrown around as rating, but not 100% sure.
By goingUp
From: over here
Oct 26, 2015

11b sounds fair for the direct finish (to the first pitch)... I didn't realize the rout went right and climbed straight up on accident... tricky and balancy, and gets very thin! Worth a go. Definitely a tad easier than the crux on Electric shower.

To keep it 5.9, follow the contour of the roof to the in-cut gully, then move back left (you turn left at or just before the electric shower anchor).