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Mullein Land
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YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
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Submitted By: Matt Schroer on Aug 25, 2011

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This route travels up a large, block-filled gully with superb views of Logan Canyon and the river far below. The book says it can be done in 1 or 2 pitches, but there was no obvious belay station, so I suggest cruising through in 1 pitch. The route has some loose, chossy holds and some loose pebble to cobble size rocks on it, so I advise both the climber and especially the belayer to wear helmets! The climbing is easy and consistent at 5.5. Protection is typical of Logan Canyon limestone: notoriously tricky to place solidly. Luckily, spots for protection are numerous and hand holds abound. Not a route to seek out in and of itself, but if you're up at Mullein land and have a trad rack with you, give it a shot.


This route is located in the gully directly to the right of Old Glory, before you walk around to the back side of Mullein Land. Climb up this obvious gully using traditional pro. At about 30 feet from the top, make sure you head left, as going right will make for an interesting exploration to find anchors/battle rope drag.


A standard rack up to a #3 camalot was used. Be sure to bring several 24" runners to reduce rope drag (a killer on this route without them if you do it in one pitch). There are fixed chain anchors located just below the summit to the left. We used a 70 m rope and rapped from the top using two ropes, just to be safe. Old Glory's anchors are located below the top anchors, so I believe you could descend in two raps with a shorter rope.

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By Will Hamann
Apr 3, 2017

Thanks for adding this surprisingly fun chossfest to the site Matt! a rappel with a single 60m will leave you about 2m of downclimbing

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