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The Lynch Crag
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Eraserhead T 
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Mulholland Drive 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: V. Stiefel, R. Vogel, H. Harris, 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 363
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Apr 19, 2003

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Deep into the crux section .... definitely not dre...

Description 

This climb begins in a very shallow dihedral with an unprotectable seam a few yards left of Powered by Old English (PbOE). Tenuous face climbing (5.10+) leads to an initially intermittent finger crack 15' from the bottom. The crux involves sequential moves that are technical and powerful over two bulges. Near the top the finger crack curves 90 degrees to the right and merges with PbOE. Clip the last bolt on PbOE before reaching the anchors.

Protection 

Camming units to 1.5" including small TCU's (#00 - #3) or aliens, brass, and small to medium stoppers provide solid protection. A two bolt anchor is on top (shares the same anchor as Powered by Old English). We left carabiners on the hangers to rappel from (please leave them there).


Photos of Mulholland Drive Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: (L-R) Erasure Head (9, around corner); Wounded Kne...
BETA PHOTO: (L-R) Erasure Head (9, around corner); Wounded Kne...
Rock Climbing Photo: Vern about to tackle the crux section of Mullholla...
Vern about to tackle the crux section of Mullholla...

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By Vernon Stiefel
Apr 20, 2003

The puzzling and stimulating nature of the climbing on this route motivated us to name it after the movie by the infamous D. Lynch.

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