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Mulatto Serpent 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mikey Williams
Page Views: 277
Submitted By: Joseph DeGaetano on Jun 15, 2014

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Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the last route before you scramble up and over the little hill heading towards the Genocide area.

Although it isn't much to look at from the bottom, this 7 bolt sport climb is damn good and requires a bag of tricks to reach the anchors. This would be a proud onsight being that the climbing is deceiving and not straight forward.

Start by climbing up a detached flake to reach the first bolt and the base of the chossy roof. Clip the two roof bolts while staying as efficient as possible and be ready to engineer a powerful mantle move to establish on the face. Rest up for a second and get ready for the real climbing. Slabby ninja moves for the next three bolts guard the anchor. Suck that gut in, hope for a slight breeze, and curse the extra slice of pizza you ate last night and you might just make out better than Ole' Homer Plessy.

Location 

Just right of the classic Whiny Bugs and Komatose. Last route before the little hill.

Protection 

7 bolts and bolted anchor


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