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Muir Wall 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2

Type:  Trad, Aid, 33 pitches, 2900', Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2 [details]
FA: Yvon Chouinard, TM Herbert, 1965
Page Views: 14,200
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Feb 27, 2007

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The Muir Wall is an outstanding route that follows a beautiful natural line of crack and corner systems just left of The Nose. Although moderate in grade this route sees relatively little traffic due to it's very sustained and demanding nature, which requires lots of technical aid climbing. This route has been climbed at 5.9 C4 but most parties will probably want to bring some pins and a hammer to keep the grade at A2. For more detailed info and topos look at the "Yosemite Big Wall Supertopo" guide book.


The approach is the same as The Nose but once at the base of the wall continue west till you come to a large left facing dihedral just left of Moby Dick (Moby Dick is a good alternate start for the route). This approach should take about 20 to 30 minutes with a haul bag.


Bring three sets of cams from .5" to 3", extra 1" cams and one each of 3.5" to 4.5" a 6" cam and micro cams are also very useful on many pitches. Also bring two sets of nuts with offsets and one or two sets of micro nuts with offsets. Bring one cam hook, an assortment of about 8 to 10 LA's, a few 1/2" and 5/8" angles and a sawed off 3/4" and 1" angle. Finally bring 2 to 4 KB's and Supertopo says to bring a Beak but I don't recall ever using one on the route.

Photos of Muir Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Doing some camping on the road
BETA PHOTO: Doing some camping on the road
Rock Climbing Photo: Got jugs?
Got jugs?
Rock Climbing Photo: 3rd pitch, penduluming !
BETA PHOTO: 3rd pitch, penduluming !
Rock Climbing Photo: Kyle Weinstein high on the Muir!!!
Kyle Weinstein high on the Muir!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Muir, pitch 24(?)
Muir, pitch 24(?)
Rock Climbing Photo: Hey brah...
Hey brah...
Rock Climbing Photo: Muir Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Muir Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: C3/A2 splitter up high, cant remember the pitch nu...
C3/A2 splitter up high, cant remember the pitch nu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Evans photo
Tom Evans photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Out of the frying pan...
Out of the frying pan...
Rock Climbing Photo: Haj (Marek Hajek) cleaning...
Haj (Marek Hajek) cleaning...

Comments on Muir Wall Add Comment
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By 426
Mar 6, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C4-

We did this route clean several years ago and I highly rec an arsennal of small aliens, both offset and normal. The crux is a little bit rotten.

Overall a super classic route. One of the best bivies on the Cap is to the left about 80' of the start of the huge dihedral near the top. Some funkiness to get there (easy 5th traverse) but oh so classic....
By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
Jan 21, 2012

FCA: Steve Grossman, 1990
By Tate Shepherd
From: Bend, OR
Jul 24, 2017

I solo'd this route from mammoth terrace this spring, (I had climbed freeblast with a friend who helped me haul to mammoth terrace, the rest was done solo). It went well, and I highly recommend it as a solo. The aid is very moderate, and the only difficult part to do alone is the traverse into the Muir wall dihedral system from below the Shield headwall, and the final traversing pitch near the top out. If your interested in a full write up with videos and pictures, check it out on my blog here

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