REI Community
Mugu Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A: Arete TR 
B: Crack TR 
C: Crack TR 
Crystal Crimps 
D: Crack TR 
E: Crack TR 
F: Crack TR 
G: Crack/Face TR 
H: Crack TR 
Traverse T,TR 

Mugu Rock Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 3,931
Administrators: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 5, 2009
Sorry, weather is currently unavailable.
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Know the location? Show us! We need it for cool new features!
BETA PHOTO: Route Topo, Mugu Rock A: Arete (5.9+) B: Crack (5...


Home to several short, high quality, moderate crack climbs on slightly overhanging rock. The boulder is periodically painted with a semi-gloss paint which masks the graffiti and makes the rock unusually slick for hands and feet.

Several Glue-In eyebolts adorn the top of the boulder. A few small cams and medium stoppers offer additional anchor possibilities. Scramble up and descend the climber’s-right side of the boulder (class-3)

  • *Contributor's Note: all of the route grades are given using the YDS, simply because this is the convention that has been used by guidebook authors for over 20 years (Hellweg & Warstler, Craig Fry, Steve Edwards, etc.). Most of the routes fall into the VB or V0- category.

Getting There 

Located in the parking turnout, on the ocean-side of the highway. You can't miss it!

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.7 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Mugu Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Grieger at the start of route C, at Mugu Rock...

C: Crack 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  California : Central Coast : ... : Mugu Rock
Hard for the grade. The crux is moving off of a painful fingerlock at mid-height. The feet are bad almost the whole way....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Mugu Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Marisa Fienup enjoying another stellar evening at ...
Marisa Fienup enjoying another stellar evening at ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Audrey & Drew climb the offwidth (route D) at Mugu...
Audrey & Drew climb the offwidth (route D) at Mugu...
Rock Climbing Photo: The traverse (5.11+), Mugu Rock
BETA PHOTO: The traverse (5.11+), Mugu Rock

Comments on Mugu Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mulligan
Nov 29, 2009
This is a nice roadside diversion boulder with about a dozen cracks to choose from from 5.8 to 5.11. There are several bolts on top for anchors and an easy descent. The only downside to this boulder is the slick paint it is covered in that makes the jams and footholds somewhat insecure.

This boulder is right off the PCH (Hwy 1), and is easily visible as you drive by. From the north it is shortly after you pass Point Mugu NAS on the ocean (right) side of the road.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About