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Muffin Top 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 1,490
Submitted By: Nathan Scherneck on Jun 1, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Chuck Becker on Muffin Top, Trout Creek Photo: Nat...

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>


This offwidth testpiece starts with about 10' of moves on an inside edge, then it's hand stacks, armbars, calf locks, and knee locks to the tippy top. Enjoy!


just right of The Long March. Shares the anchor.


Many #4s, #5s, and #6s

Photos of Muffin Top Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on the FA.
Me on the FA.
Rock Climbing Photo: Muffin Top, Trout Creek
Muffin Top, Trout Creek

Comments on Muffin Top Add Comment
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By davidbr
Jul 3, 2014

Don't know where you'd put a #4 on this. It's 5's and 6's all the way. To protect the mantel onto the pillar at the top, you can also place something the size of a #2 and/or a piece in the .5 range.
By Brett Yost
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 2, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I tried leading this about 6 or 7 times in 2003/04 and never got it clean. Guess I'm not a 5.10 climber ;-)
We called it "Small Fry", but I guess the name didn't stick. There was a 20" x 20" x 1" plate flake remarkably unbelievably balanced on a tiny edge that we knocked off in a very memorable near miss on the first attempt, about 15 feet below the top; yikes.
By Jed Brown
Aug 11, 2015

I climbed this in October 2006 when in Trout Creek with a group of mostly Seattle-area climbers. Our group was pretty confident it was unclimbed at the time and had not heard of any previous names. Lara Kellogg, Mark Westman, and I had just been climbing together in Yosemite and my original name of Lara's Muffin Top was a joking reference to her ongoing critique of the dubious fashion choices made by Valley visitors. It's no wonder the name has been shortened considering that Lara never had a muffin top.
By Chuck Becker
From: Portland, OR
Jun 13, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Sustained! One tipped out #4 can be placed low on the route, in the first 10'. After that it's all 5's & 6's - 3 of each wouldn't go unused.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Nov 9, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Not sure why this is 5.10 and Redside is 10+. This feels like honest 5.10 offwidthing and Redside feels like 5.9 wide with a 5.10 approach. Used Chuck's rack beta (minus the #4) and it was perfect. Took the small piece for the top and placed it, but wouldn't again.

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