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Middle Muffin
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Devil Baby Traverse 
Muff Diver S,TR 
Muffin Monster TR 
Pocket Change 

Muff Diver 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, Boulder, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 62
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Aug 20, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Matt looks at Muff Diver

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Description 

The right-most climb on the Mid Muffin, Muff Diver involves a slopey start into a slot, then after the first bolt, right out of the slot. All the moss atop the rock demands that the final mantle be done with utmost care and balance.

Protection 

Two bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, very scary solo/bouldering problem as the crux is very close to the top. To set up a top rope, climb the tree to the left of the muffin, which is allegedly a 5.9.


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By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 25, 2002

I thought I could solo it, and then chickened out at the crux fifteen feet or so off the ground. Good thing too, as I fell when I had a toprope on a few minutes later. Cool climb though, with good rests and a balancy crux.
By steple
Apr 8, 2012

Short but fun, this route features a kneebar to bolt ratio of 1! Good holds in the large hueco lead to a mantle to the anchors.

Down climb not trivial.