REI Community
Dunce Rock
Select Route:
Unknown T 



Type:  Aid, 2 pitches, 100'
Original: A2+ [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 574
Submitted By: Kevin Landolt on Oct 4, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Kent loving the mud.

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This is a cool and casual nailing route that ascends an obvious crack (now that the mud cover has been removed) on the south-face center of Dunce Rock. I'm sure it's been done many times before. Climb over a roof on small cams/angles to gain a right leaning mud-crack. Nail up and right on a big expando-flake. As the crack fizzles out, beak and hook right to gain the east ridge. Enjoy a cold PBR on the "comodious" ledge. Pitch two traverses out right on the N. Face to gain the drilled-angle ladder to the summit.

Bring a lawn-chair for the belay, and maybe even a cooler for the beer?


South Face of Dunce Rock


Large/medium/small angles - Leeper Zs - a few big peckers - a big hook - and a few cams.

Comments on Mudgumbis Add Comment
Show which comments
By k. riemondy
From: Boulder, Co
Oct 7, 2010

I can't wait to redpoint the direct finish up the face. I think it would involve a highstep fr'aid mantel, to another beak seam. mmmm tasty!
By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
Nov 9, 2010

I actually drilled that angle/bolt ladder on the North Side with JeremyA back in 2007 or so. I think we did the same starting pitch, and agree, a lounge chair con cerveza is pretty neccessary.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About