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Mud Spring Wing

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beautiful Bastard T 
Fingers in the Honeypot T 
Gadgers Edge T 
Jagged Edge, The S 
Long Riders, The T 
Man of the People S 
Schwa, The T 
Schwalli T 
Spirit Air S 

Mud Spring Wing Rock Climbing 

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Location: 36.02788, -115.46107 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Apr 4, 2016
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


The Mud Spring Wing is a series of south- and east-facing walls that sit on the southeast corner of Black Velvet Peak at the entrance to Mud Spring Canyon.

Getting There 

1) Look in your guidebook and identify the wall during the drive into Black Velvet Canyon. Also identify the corner of the "Schwalette" route as this will be an important landmark.

2) Park as for Black Velvet Canyon. Follow the main trail for a few hundred yards towards Black Velvet Canyon, but turn left at the first intersection which is the signed Black Velvet Mountain Bike Trail. This is just before the BV wag bag dispenser.

3) Follow this trail to a slight rise from which you can see an enormous pyramidal boulder in the distance at about 11 o'clock and slightly below your level. Continue following the trail until it turns hard left and begins descending towards this boulder.

4) Instead of continuing, break off the trail to the right (continuing more or less in the same direction - south - you were headed) and follow cairns through the desert crossing the very bottom of a very narrow, straight wash that leads steeply up the hillside towards the open book of the "Schwalette" route.

5) The easiest path from here follows tight zig-zags up the narrow ridge that forms the left shoulder of the wash.

This route has been well-cairned as of spring, 2015, but allow 45 minutes of slogging from the BV parking lot. See the approach map photo.

Climbing Season

For the Red Rock area.

Weather station 3.9 miles from here

9 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mud Spring Wing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mud Spring Wing:
Beautiful Bastard   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Schwa   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Man of the People   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Spirit Air   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   
The Long Riders   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Fingers in the Honeypot   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mud Spring Wing

Featured Route For Mud Spring Wing
Rock Climbing Photo: Rico leading The Schwa.

The Schwa 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  Nevada : Red Rock : ... : Mud Spring Wing
The Schwa is one of the few members of Red Rock Canyon's exclusive splitter crack club. This club includes the likes of The Fox, Atman, Yin Yang, Red Zinger, and Chrysler Crack amongst a few others.The Schwa itself feels a lot like The Fox. The second pitch of the route starts with hands and just gets bigger as you go.The best way to climb this route is to break it into two pitches. There are a few ways to approach the main crack. The left side is somewhat difficult, whereas the right side i...[more]   Browse More Classics in Nevada

Comments on Mud Spring Wing Add Comment
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By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Jul 15, 2013
To update the approach beta a touch, you continue along the mountain bike trail until a huge pyramidal boulder on your left hand side. Then cross-country steeply and be unhappy, until you look up at the, and continue grunting. It is worth it.

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