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Mud and Guts 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Doug Reed, Tom Howard 1984
Page Views: 189
Submitted By: Joel Longo on Jun 2, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This route is often wet, but worth roping up for if you happen to catch it dry. A good adventure climb at the very least that will leave you satisfied and a little dirty.

Make your way up the dihedral, placing gear in the crack on the left wall, stemming and using the arete to the left up to the wider portion of the dihedral crack. Plug some gear and go for it up to the base of the small roof. Pull the roof and finish at the tree above the crack.

Location 

Left of Just Send It in the obvious dihedral.

Protection 

A standard rack up to 2 with a few doubles in the middle to bigger range and a nice selection of smaller cams will get you safely to the top. A number 4 is nice, but not necessary, for the last bit to the top after you pull the roof.

No anchor, but there is a tree right at the top of the route.


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By Mike Nevko
From: Currently Charlotte
Nov 14, 2016

Not a bad route, just gets some dirt on it from the run off. Good jams, lead up to a lieback and then a odd finger lock below the roof. Worth doing if it dry. Tree is healthy and large enough to rap from if there isn't webbing up there.

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