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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: April 2nd, 2012 Jay Harrison & Tom Lane
New Route: Yes
Season: April - November
Page Views: 204
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Apr 4, 2012

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Lukasz Czyz on Muckraker.


The initial 15' is unprotected 5.8, and long falls are possible in a couple spots farther up, so it isn't for leaders breaking into the grade.
Climb up to a tenuous stance above the slanting crack and make a balancy reach to a good sidepull. Reach up to place the 1st pro in a right-rising crack, then climb that crack a few feet until a tricky move left gets you to a right-facing corner. Up this, to a ledge (V1). From this, climb up over a triangular chockstone boulder onto another good ledge. Climb the obvious vertical crack (using very unobvious technique) to a sloping ledge finish.
V1 5.10a TR: Climb the narrow seam/tips crack to its end, bump for a good hold, then rejoin the route at the hand crack. For lead attempts, pro for this variation may be too far underfoot to avoid a ledge hit.


40' right of Moehammed, Larry, & Curly, at the leftmost of 3 ground-level vertical cracks that end at a right-trending crack at head height.
Descend by rappelling from a tree.


Full set of C3s, C4s .3 to #2, and small to medium stoppers.

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