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(5) Shakespeare Cliff
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Much Ado About Nothing 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chuck Buzzard 1982
Page Views: 1,701
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 5, 2006

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Much ado

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Great crack climbing followed by an exciting roof make this a highly memorable climb.

Start in a obvious crack just left of a flat face and right of a bolted column. Climb pleasant 5.9 hands with face holds up to a two bolt anchor with green chains...but don't stop there.
Clip the anchor and work up and into the roof above. Climb a finger crack through the roof to a nice ledge above with a bolted anchor. Best to belay from above and rap off.


Lower Gorge, East Columns, Shakespeare Cliff, look for the roof with green chains below it.


rack from .5" - 3"

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By rpc
Sep 21, 2007

A very nice route. One hard move comes right where things get overhung near the top and before crack opens to allow a finger lock (my opinion).
By Johnny Y
From: California
Oct 9, 2014

The crux felt pretty thin even for my small fingers (between #0 to #1 metolius), cranking straight up that crack seemed hard for the grade. A hold out left may help, bouldery.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 11, 2014

Hard for 10d to lead. I climb up, place some purple/blue/yellow mastercams as high as I can, downclimb back to the rest, and then just punch it. Stopping to place gear in the roof makes this a 5.11 for sure. I use the hold out left for sure.

If you want to setup as a TR, its best to extend the anchor way out so that you can get the biners over the sharp edge of the lip. Two double shoulder slings and a cordelette will give you the options you need. 60m rope is plenty for this climb.

Many many people only climb up to the first anchor right below the roof, which goes at 5.9.
By Muscrat
Dec 13, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

And i thought i was 'cheating' by using the hold out left! I tried and tried to work it straight through the roof crack, thin, hard, NOT 10.d! Finally got it out left...? But really really fun!

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