Yamnuska (officially named: Mt Laurie) has approx 115 routes. Ranging from 30m sportish climbs to 350m trad testpieces. Its southern exposure allows for a long climbing season. It can be climbed in the middle of winter but don't be surprised if you get snowed on in the middle of August either. As with most of the Rockies the rock is Limestone, which is a mixed bag. Though generally the rock is good and excellent in places. For more information refer to "Yamnuska Rock" by Andy Genereux.
If you want adventure climbing you will find it here!
Yam is located approx. 1hrs drive west of Calgary and 30mins East of Banff. If coming from Calgary take Highway 1 (Trans Canada)west to Highway 1X. Take the righthand off ramp heading north to Highway 1A. Turn right at the "T" intersection, drive approx. 2km and take the first left turn into the parking area. If coming from Banff, take Highway 1 east to the 1X and continue as above.
The approach trail leaves the parking lot at the west end. Follow the trail up a steep hillside to a junction with a sign. The climbers trail heads west and will deposit you at the base of the cliff near the center. The hiking trail heads east and will put you at the east end of the cliff. The climber's trail is a sustained grunt and the best option if climbing any routes west of Red Shirt. The hiking trail is a little more pleasant and adds only a couple of minutes but is only recommended for approaching the East End routes.
The descent for most routes is an easy walk off. If your route is west of the summit head down and west, if it is east of the summit head down and east. For routes that are close to the summit on the east side it is usually quicker to head over the summit and take the western descent trail.
The Kallen 34 is a published list that puts 34 routes on Yamnuska on a pedestal as a healthy and scary challenge to those who want to test their mettle. The list is at Brandon Pullan's Blogspot brandopullan.blogspot.ca/2012/...
or just below:
Missionarys Crack (CURRENTLY UNCLIMBABLE AND VERY LOOSE)
Dazed and Confused
Bottleneck Direct Direct
These are not the 'best routes' as many are considered pretty bold and scary but just a list put together by Urs Kallen, a Pionner of the Valley. It is a healthy objective for anyone who wants to get some good rock climbing done and also brag at the bar.
Climbing Season For the Bow Valley area.
Weather station 8.7 miles from here
17 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Yamnuska
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Yamnuska
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Yamnuska:
Featured Route For Yamnuska
Grillmair's Chimneys 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
PG13 North America
: ... : 5. Bottleneck
This classic route was the first route put up on Yamnuska. The first ascent was done by 'accident' using a nylon utility rope and a couple of pins. The first assencionists started scrambling just to see how high they could get, and before they knew it they were roping up for the crux pitch.Do not do this route until Yam is free of snow, or else you'll regret it!This is a great introductory route on Yam, the route finding is relatively straight forward, and the rock on the difficult sections is f...[more] Browse More Classics in International
From: Tempe, AZ
Jun 10, 2014
Glad to hear these guys were rescued yesterday. Anyone know what route they were on? Curious to know if there are other loose boulders up there.
By Brad Warne
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jun 17, 2014
The route was Missionary Crack. As with all routes on Yam there is loose rock. That section of the route has always had some teetering masses.