Mt. Willard (Ice) Rock Climbing
My wife and I at the lookout on top
Though I wouldn't describe this area as an "alpine" area, it is very exposed and can be very cold in bad weather. The approach is somewhat technical and to retreat from some of the upper routes requires a rappel and some technical 4th class downclimbing.
The routes are spread out along the east and south faces. The East face can be broken into the lower and upper cliff bands and contain some great moderate climbs like Hitchcock Gully and the East Face Slabs as well as some tough mixed lines, like Dial M for Murder. The south face has a variety of climbs like the numbered gullies, Great Madness, and the Cinema Gully.
The routes offer great views over the notch and the large amount and variety of routes make Mt. Willard feel like an alpine playground.
Park at the top of the Notch in a plowed out parking lot, just south of the AMC Highland Center. Many hiking trails leave from this lot so it tends to fill up early. Walk south along the railroad tracks to the bottom of the area in which you plan to climb.
Weather station 4.8 miles from here
28 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Willard (Ice)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Willard (Ice)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Willard (Ice) :
Featured Route For Mt. Willard (Ice)
WI2 New Hampshire
: * Ice and Mixed Climbing
: ... : South Face - Lower
This is a great climb that ascends the slabby and beautiful South face of Mt. Willard that you can't miss as you drive North through Crawford Notch on US302. It is a classic climb and lives up to it's hype, although it can often be busy on weekends. There are several bulges on a moderate angle slab with the longest at the top. There are 2 main exits form this climb. To the left it stays at a sustained Grade 2 and to the right it is usually closer to Grade 3.The climb can possibly be done in 3 lo...[more] Browse More Classics in New Hampshire
Jan 24, 2016
There's a broken piece of grating on the first (I think) railroad bridge you get to when heading out to the Mt. Willard climbs. I was walking out in the dark by headlamp yesterday and stepped on a piece of grating which had fallen through on one end. It bent significantly with my weight but thankfully held me from falling through. This is a pretty serious hazard.
EDIT: Guess this has been like this for a while. Still think it should get fixed or someone's gonna fall through eventually.