Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Mt. Willard (Ice)

Select Area...
East Face - Lower 
East Face - Upper 
South Face - Lower 
South Face - Upper 
Trestle Area 
Willey Brook 

Mt. Willard (Ice)  Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,865'
Location: 44.20348, -71.41032 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,363
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008  with updates from Kurtz
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
My wife and I at the lookout on top


Though I wouldn't describe this area as an "alpine" area, it is very exposed and can be very cold in bad weather. The approach is somewhat technical and to retreat from some of the upper routes requires a rappel and some technical 4th class downclimbing.

The routes are spread out along the east and south faces. The East face can be broken into the lower and upper cliff bands and contain some great moderate climbs like Hitchcock Gully and the East Face Slabs as well as some tough mixed lines, like Dial M for Murder. The south face has a variety of climbs like the numbered gullies, Great Madness, and the Cinema Gully.

The routes offer great views over the notch and the large amount and variety of routes make Mt. Willard feel like an alpine playground.

Getting There 

Park at the top of the Notch in a plowed out parking lot, just south of the AMC Highland Center. Many hiking trails leave from this lot so it tends to fill up early. Walk south along the railroad tracks to the bottom of the area in which you plan to climb.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

28 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Willard (Ice)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Willard (Ice) :
The Cleft   WI2+     Ice, 2 pitches, 210'   East Face - Upper
Gully 1   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   South Face - Lower
Cinema Gully   WI2     Ice, 3 pitches, 600'   South Face - Lower
Left Hand Monkey Wrench   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch   East Face - Lower
East Face Slab Right   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch   East Face - Upper
Upper Hitchcock Gully   WI3-     Trad, Ice, 110'   East Face - Upper
Elephant Head Gully   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Trestle Area
The Snot Rocket   WI4-5 M5     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 120'   Trestle Area
Great Madness   WI5     Ice, 2 pitches, 200'   South Face - Lower
Read Between The Lines   WI4     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   East Face - Upper
East Face Slab   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   East Face - Upper
Trestle Gully   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 75'   Trestle Area
Hitchcock Gully   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-     Ice, 2 pitches   East Face - Lower
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Willard (Ice)

Featured Route For Mt. Willard (Ice)
Rock Climbing Photo: East Face slab right, still fat in late March

East Face Slab Right WI3+  NH : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : ... : East Face - Upper
A fat flow with many variations. A sixty meter rope will barely make the rappel with a creative party, but two ropes is much easier. The position of the climb offers a great view of Mt. Webster's west ridge.The area may be a better option to rappel from the Upper Hitchcock Gully if a second party is waiting....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Mt. Willard (Ice) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Winter Overview of Mt. Willard
BETA PHOTO: Winter Overview of Mt. Willard
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Willard in February, with a party on Cinema Gu...
Mt. Willard in February, with a party on Cinema Gu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Willard from the road on a sunny (but ass-chapping...
Willard from the road on a sunny (but ass-chapping...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Willard seen from Mt Webster
Mt Willard seen from Mt Webster
Rock Climbing Photo: The consolation prize for climbing on Willard. Eve...
The consolation prize for climbing on Willard. Eve...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Willey showing Willey's slide and the south fa...
Mt. Willey showing Willey's slide and the south fa...

Comments on Mt. Willard (Ice) Add Comment
Show which comments
By petr07
Jan 24, 2016
There's a broken piece of grating on the first (I think) railroad bridge you get to when heading out to the Mt. Willard climbs. I was walking out in the dark by headlamp yesterday and stepped on a piece of grating which had fallen through on one end. It bent significantly with my weight but thankfully held me from falling through. This is a pretty serious hazard.

EDIT: Guess this has been like this for a while. Still think it should get fixed or someone's gonna fall through eventually.