Mt. Willard Rock Climbing
When Hattie Gordon tended her garden. Mt Willard c...
NOTE: The winter ice routes for this area are found as a sub-area in the "area "NH ICE and ALPINE CLIMBING".
A multi-faceted area. The main slab has multi pitch slab and crack climbing in a nice sub alpine setting. Recent "revisited" climbs such as "Hugo's Horror" and "Time Traveler" have had widly-spaced bolts and secure double-bolt belays added to the APPROXIMATE (but not exact) line of the original route. These, as well as some of the older lines, now make for pleasant outings and a somewhat different experience from slabs like Whitehorse.
The recently developed Willey Brook Ravine, and "rediscovered" Butress No. 1 AREAs provide interesting 1 pitch climbs of a different, steeper sort. Buttress No. 1 "sports" several newer, bolted, NON-SPORT routes in the 5.6 - 5.8 range, as well as several trad climbs in the same grade range. Of course, there's an "X" ...."R/X" or two as well!
The shortest and fastest approach to the Main Slab, Buttress No. 1, and Willey Brook Ravine is the "Hatties Garden Path". Park on Rt 302 at a gravel pullout on the west side of the road about a half mile above the Willey Slide pullout (coming from the south/east) or 1 1/2 miles below the AMC's Highland house (from the north/west). Coming from the south/east on Rt 302 (i.e from North Conway and Bartlett) this pull-out is on the left beyond a small stream (Willey Brook) comes in from the left, and JUST before the Saco River crosses underneath Rt 302.
A rocky logging-road starts from the rear of the parking, but quickly turns into a trail. Hike up the well-cairned trail to the actual "Hattie's Garden". (about 10 min)
To get to Willey Brook Ravine: From Hattie's Garden walk "down tracks" (south) to the big bridge and cut right into the woods. Follow the climbers trail for 2 min to the crag. (To be honest, this "trail" is obscure.)
To get to Buttress No. 1 and Main Slab, walk "Up-Tracks" (towards the cliff)
For Buttress No 1, walk about 1 to 2 minutes and look for the first little (8-inch) drainage channel through the tracks. About 30 more RR ties, and look for a cairn and steep climber's path up to the base of Buttress No.1, another 10-12 min. (More details, and photo of the "8-inch channel, in the But. No.1 AREA)
For Main Slab continue another 4-5 minutes to a boulder-gully with vegetation. (A wider, flat area with much poison ivy is on the right [south] side of the tracks here.) Up this "gully" 50-75 feet (any further and you may have the wrong 'gully'.) to the "toe" of the main slab. Standard and Hugos start here. Go right along the slab for "Time Space" and "Across the Universe".
For the "Star Trek / A Night Climb" slab continue along the RR Tracks about another 150 ties and look for a cairn. Follow cairns up. At the base of the slab, go up the left side of the slab for Star Trek. For "A Night Climb" go up and right, following a zig-zagging path to the base. Avoid going too far right.
The Non-Recommended Approach - For years the classic approach was to drive west on NH Rt. 302 and park across the street from Elephant's Head, then walk back south east along the tracks over two trestles to where the gully leading to "Standard" nearly reaches the tracks, about 20-25min. (This approach, at least in the summer and fall when the sightseeing train runs, is, technically, trespassing.)
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
36 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Willard
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Willard
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Willard:
Featured Route For Mt. Willard
Star Trek and the "Lost in Space" 5.7+R Variant ? 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
: WM: Crawford Notch
: ... : Main Slab
Just a bit of poor rock at the top of Pitch 1 and at the start of P2 keeps the "stars" at only 2, otherwise a nice way to get to the clean, white slabs above, and otherwise a 3 star climb for sure. The bad rock and "tree/bush thrashing" of the normal P1 can be totally avoided by climbing "revisited" P1 of "A Night Climb..."....it is highly recommended to START there.APPROACH: From the RR Tracks go up the short rock gully to the main slab (i.e. to the lowest 'toe' of the slab at the start ...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
By burlap submariner
Sep 14, 2009
There is a new route on willard that was put up sometime in early 2007 that climbs the face and overlap thats about 50 feet down hill from the start to across the universe, if you walk left from across the universe's bolted start there will be an immediate drop off where the toe of the cliff starts to come down toward the train tracks, at that drop off look to your left and you will see one bolt, start for that bolt and follow your nose & lots of new bolts along the way to the tree ledge that splits the lower and upper cliffs....this is an excellent and quick way to get up to the tree ledge if someone else is on the universe....
By Robert Hall
Jul 25, 2014
See the 7/25/14 COMMENT to the climb Hattie's Garden for Beta on the "path" to "Gulley#1 Buttress".
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 5, 2014
Per Rob Hall's suggestions, I broke Mt. Willard down into sub areas. I have only climbed here once, so am not so familiar with the area. If anybody has any suggestions, corrections or more route information, let us know. Don't forget you have that blue 'Improve This Page' button. The area descriptions and directions could use some filling out.