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Mt Stuart

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cascadian Couloir T 
Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme, The T 
Girth Pillar 
Gorillas Direct T 
Gorillas in the Mist T 
Ice Cliff Glacier 
King Kong - Gorillas Direct Direct T 
Sherpa Glacier T 
South Headwall T 
Stuart Glacier Couloir T 
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme T 
West Ridge T 

Mt Stuart  Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,415'
Location: 47.4773, -120.9022 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 66,690
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Jul 20, 2007


52° | 39°

52° | 41°

53° | 41°

55° | 45°

57° | 46°
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BETA PHOTO: Western slopes of Mount Stuart from Ingalls lake. ...


The second highest non-volcanic mountain in Washington state, located in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness area. The North Ridge climb on Mt. Suart is one of the 50 North American Classic Climbs. Very beautiful mountain with high relative elevation of 5,335ft and serious approaches. The easiest way to get to the top (and off the mountain) is from the south via the Cascadian Couloir. The nearby Ingalls Peak, which is to the west of Mt. Stuart has some interesting climbing as well.

Getting There 

To approach Mt. Stuart from the south, take 970 from Cle Elum for about 11 miles and turn left into Teanaway Road. After about 14 miles Teanaway Road splits into North and West Fork Teanaway. Take the North Fork Teanaway Road to the trailhead parking lot at its end. Hike up Ingalls Way trail. At the second junction at 5600', take Longs Pass trail for Cascadian Couloir, or continue on Ingalls Way for Ingalls Lake, Mt. Stuart's West and North Ridges and go over Ingalls Pass.

For West and North Ridge, traverse Ingalls Lake in its west side, drop down to the meadows and ascent the faint trail onto Stuart Pass. From here find a way through talus to the shoulder below West Ridge and continue to Goat Pass.

Climbing Season

Weather station 20.3 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mt Stuart

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt Stuart :
Ice Cliff Glacier   AI2-3     Ice, Alpine, 2000'   
Stuart Glacier Couloir   WI2 M5     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1700'   
Sherpa Glacier   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b     Trad, Alpine, 2800'   
West Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 18 pitches, 1200'   
The Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 20 pitches, 2000'   
Gorillas Direct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900'   
Gorillas in the Mist   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000'   
Girth Pillar   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a WI2     Ice, Alpine, 9415'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt Stuart

Featured Route For Mt Stuart
Rock Climbing Photo: This shows the approach and start.

The Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : Mt Stuart
The Direct North Ridge combines the North Ridge from the notch with an extra 800 feet of fun climbing. Although loose in spots and somewhat lichen covered, the route offers those looking for a longer, harder day than the North Ridge good solid 5.9+ climbing. It will obviously be faster to simulclimb, my partner and I did this and completed the entire route in 6.5 hours, but the belays for each pitch take good gear and have decent stances. Roughly the first 3 pitches are the hardest. 1: Climb...[more]   Browse More Classics in Washington

Photos of Mt Stuart Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mount Stuart (behind) and Colchuck Peak from the s...
Mount Stuart (behind) and Colchuck Peak from the s...
Rock Climbing Photo: little panorama from the top
little panorama from the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Ingalls basin near Mt. Stuart
Ingalls basin near Mt. Stuart
Rock Climbing Photo: A frozen Ingalls Lake with Mt. Stuart in the backg...
A frozen Ingalls Lake with Mt. Stuart in the backg...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunrise from Goat Pass
Sunrise from Goat Pass
Rock Climbing Photo: South Face from Ingalls lake
South Face from Ingalls lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Ingalls Peak from Ingalls Lake trail.
Ingalls Peak from Ingalls Lake trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mount Stuart from the south. From Ingalls Pass.
BETA PHOTO: Mount Stuart from the south. From Ingalls Pass.

Comments on Mt Stuart Add Comment
Show which comments
By Trevor
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
May 12, 2016
If approaching from the south (Stuart Lake Trailhead), some useful info:
By J.Roatch
From: Leavenworth, WA
Jul 17, 2016
Trevor, I think you mean if you're approaching from the North/Leavenworth side.
By Calvin Landrus
From: Bend, OR
Aug 1, 2017
Not sure how long this has been in place but the road for the south approach, the Esmeralda/Ingalls Lake/Longs pass Trailhead, is blocked off about 1.5 miles before reaching the trailhead proper (as of 7/31/17). Not a big deal but must factor in at least a 1.5 mile longer hike.

Does anyone know why this closer is in effect? There was no obvious road damage to cause this. Please update this if you find the closure is no longer in effect.

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