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Mt. Spry

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Mt. Spry Rock Climbing 

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Location: 37.22187, -112.96378 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nate Brown on Jul 22, 2009
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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Cool small peak to the right of the Right Twin Brother. Home to many fine free climbs.

Getting There 

first peak above and to the right as you turn in to the main canyon

Climbing Season

For the Zion National Park area.

Weather station 0.2 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Spry

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Spry:
Holy Roller   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 440'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Spry

Featured Route For Mt. Spry
Rock Climbing Photo: Neil Kauffman follows the splitter on pitch 5.

Holy Roller 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  Utah : Zion National Park : Mt. Spry
Holy Roller seeks out the right of the 3 prominent vertical splitter cracks at the north end of Mt. Spry (the left line is "Sandblaster", and the middle one is "Central Pillar"). The thing is, this crack doesn't start at the base of the route, so a bolt-protected face pitch gains it, with a couple great pitches as a reward. This aspect of Mt. Spry is shaded in the a.m. and sees afternoon sun.P1: Climb a hand/fist crack in a right facing corner to a bolted anchor (5.9, 60').P2:...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

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By Alec LaLonde
Apr 18, 2011
There's no established trail to this one. After a circuitous bushwhack to the routes I'd do this instead:

Park/get off the bus at Canyon Junction, and walk down the road until you're at the base of a wash directly below the main face with the three crack systems. Make your way up.

Or, as some of the locals do, get off at Court of the Patriarchs and longboard down-canyon to the same wash.

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