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Mt. Shasta

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Avalanche Gulch 
Casaval Ridge 
Green Butte Ridge 
Hotlum Glacier Route 
Hotlum-Bolam Ridge 
West Face Gully 

Mt. Shasta Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 14,179'
Location: 41.4092, -122.1949 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,909
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Zach S on Jun 17, 2009
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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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J. Muir: "When I first caught sight of [Shasta] over the braided folds of the Sacramento Valley, I was fifty miles away and afoot, alone and weary. Yet all my blood turned to wine, and I have not been weary since."

Mount Shasta dwarfs the rolling hills below, rising up out of nowhere, towering 10,000 feet above it's surroundings. At 14,179 feet, Shasta provides numerous routes ranging from the relatively simple Avalanche Gulch to technical, glaciated terrain on Whitney Glacier to challenging mixed routes like Cassoval Ridge. Although isolated, Mount Shasta is actually the second tallest peak in the Cascade Range, just 232ft shorter than Mt. Rainier.

Shasta is a great place to get started with Alpine Climbing. The routes are well traveled (read "crowded") and route-finding on the easier routes is relatively straightforward, even in less than ideal conditions.

The Sierra Club currently (and for the past 100 or so years) maintains a hut at Horse Camp near the main southern entrance point of Bunny Flat Trailhead. A caretaker is on site on the weekends and can help give you some advice, teach you jokes, and give you some background on the various legends of the mountain (these are very funny, definitely ask about the "portals"). This camp also has composting toilets, running water, and a fire pit. Most people heading up the South Face will use either this or Lake Helen (Helen Lake?) as base camp for the ascent.

Shasta is a major destination for both day-hikers, backpackers, and mountaineers, so expect it to be busy, particularly at or around the trailheads, and at or around the climbing season (May/June). It thins out as you get higher up, but expect company on the summit unless you bag it by about 9AM.

Getting There 

Shasta sits right on I-5 in northern California, roughly 5 hours drive from downtown San Francisco, and a little over 6 hours south of Portland.

Once you exit I5 in the town of Shasta, the easiest way to get to the mountain is to drive on the main road until you hit the Fifth Season, a local gear shop were you can pick up anything you forgot. Take the road behind the Fifth up towards the mountain, this will pass by a high-school and you just keep heading up this road all the way to the Bunny Flat trailhead.

From BF, it is about an hour walk to Horse Camp (see above for description). From there, the South and West Face routes start.

I haven't done the approaches for the other routes, so I will do a little research and update this.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.0 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Shasta

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Shasta:
Avalanche Gulch   Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine, 7000'   
Hotlum-Bolam Ridge   AI1-2     Ice, Alpine, 6000'   
Hotlum Glacier Route   AI1-2 Steep Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, 7000'   
West Face Gully        Alpine, 7500'   
Green Butte Ridge        Alpine, 800'   
Casaval Ridge   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine, Grade III   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Shasta

Featured Route For Mt. Shasta
Rock Climbing Photo: Shows the upper portion of the Hotlum Glacier.

Hotlum Glacier Route AI1-2 Steep Snow  California : Northeast California : Mt. Shasta
A great steepening glacier climb complete with crevasses, seracs, and bergschrunds to be navigated around and below an obvious rock head wall that can be climbed directly (rarely at 5.8), or (more popularly) bypassed by ice ramps on either side of the head wall (AI 1-2). Ascend the glacier taking a path to minimize your overhead objective hazards that can include serac collapse induced avalanches, normal avalanches, and rock fall. Once at the head wall, several options are available to exit th...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Mt. Shasta Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunrise on the east side of Mt Shasta
Sunrise on the east side of Mt Shasta
Rock Climbing Photo: From Green Butte Ridge
From Green Butte Ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: sunny
Rock Climbing Photo: Shasta and Shastina.
Shasta and Shastina.
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolum Glacier
Bolum Glacier
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolam Glacier Camp at Night, Mt. Shasta
Bolam Glacier Camp at Night, Mt. Shasta
Rock Climbing Photo: MT SHASTA
Rock Climbing Photo: the view from 50/50... march 2009
the view from 50/50... march 2009
Rock Climbing Photo: march
Rock Climbing Photo: march
Rock Climbing Photo: august
Rock Climbing Photo: view of Casaval Ridge from campsite around 10,000 ...
view of Casaval Ridge from campsite around 10,000 ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me at the first crest of Casaval Ridge.
Me at the first crest of Casaval Ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: view
Rock Climbing Photo: avalanche gulch in august, 2010
avalanche gulch in august, 2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Shasta from highway 89.
Mt. Shasta from highway 89.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Shasta after a storm.
Mt. Shasta after a storm.
Rock Climbing Photo: Horse Camp
Horse Camp
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset from North Gate Trailhead, Mt. Shasta, Cali...
Sunset from North Gate Trailhead, Mt. Shasta, Cali...

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