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Mt. Lyell
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East Arete via South East Ridge 

Mt. Lyell Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,114'
Location: 37.7394, -119.2716 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,052
Administrators: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Aug 3, 2009
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Parker, Tony and Lluis on the summit of Mount Lyel...


This peak is the highest point in Yosemite National Park (YNP) and there is a magnificent view from its summit, including the top section of El Capitan.

The second largest glacier in the High Sierra lies on its north side, and many climbers approach the peak from this glacier.

Getting There 

Tuolumne Meadows south along the John Muir Trail via Lyell Canyon and Donahue Pass for the glacier routes (permits here), and June Lake Loop Road up Rush Creek to Marie Lakes for routes on the south side follow Inyo link on main High Sierra page.

Rush Creek Trail
This is a long approach starting at the Rush Creek Trailhead at Silver Lake, past Agnew, Gem, and Waugh Lakes to the John Muir Trail, then north to the Marie Lakes Trail. Allow 7 hours for this hike. On the way out there's some significant up and down past Gem Lake - aaarrrgghhh! Beautiful views of Banner along the JMT and up to Lower Marie Lake. Very few campsites here, but there is one above the north east corner of the lake, by some trees, on the right side, just before the end of the trail which leads down to the lake.

Climbing Season

For the High Sierra area.

Weather station 7.4 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Lyell

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Lyell:
East Arete via South East Ridge   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Lyell

Featured Route For Mt. Lyell
Rock Climbing Photo: Parker and Chris on the knife-edge, Banner peak on...

East Arete via South East Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow  California : High Sierra : ... : Mt. Lyell
This route includes a very exciting ridge traverse. The East Arete proper can also be gained from either the glacier north of, or the cwm south of Lyell, both of which are considerably easier. There is also a way to reach the East Col from the ridge directly east (gained from Middle Marie Lake), this is also 4th class.Use Rush Creek trail.Route ApproachAfter wading across the outlet of Lower Marie Lake, hike easily along its west shore and over the creek that drains Middle Ma...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Mt. Lyell Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony above the dam at Gem Lake.
Tony above the dam at Gem Lake.
Rock Climbing Photo: View north from Lower Marie Lake.
View north from Lower Marie Lake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lyell (leftmost of the three) as seen from the Mar...
BETA PHOTO: Lyell (leftmost of the three) as seen from the Mar...

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