Mt Kenya is a huge alpine objective with a large variety of difficulties and climbing styles. That being said, all climbs should be taken extremely seriously as weather can be fickle, even in the dry season. Rescue is far away or non-existent and you will be on your own if anything happens. Multiple people die every year on this mountain, most of them hikers, so don't let the presence of school groups on the approach fool you.
But it's not all grim! This is a beautiful mountain, made all the more incredible by its simply improbable setting. Ice, snow, jagged spires, long routes, and incredible flora and fauna make Mt Kenya unique in the alpine climbing world.
See the page for SE face of Nelion for a ton more beta. Pick up a guidebook from the Mountain Club of Kenya for the best beta.
Glaciers have receded severely in the past decades so take most maps and route descriptions with a grain of salt. Even the ultra-classic Diamond Couloir is barely formed most seasons.
Mt Kenya has multiple approach trails but only two are well equipped with huts and infrastructure. Get a guidebook from the Mountain Club of Kenya and ask for information updates as approach beta is constantly changing.
Take either Naro Moru or Sirimon approach if you want to stay in huts - there are comfortable and well-equipped huts all the way to the base of the mountain on both sides. Other approaches are more scenic but require self-sufficient camping. Mountain Club of Kenya members can access the very comfortable, cozy, and well-equipped hut at the base of the mountain on the Naro Moru approach.
Porters and guides are recommended. Water is available at the base but not on the climbs.
Don't underestimate the altitude, especially if you are coming from sea level. Give yourself time in Nairobi, at the trailhead (1 night) and at the base (1 night) before climbing.
Weather station 15.2 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mt Kenya
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt Kenya:
Featured Route For Mt Kenya
North Face Standard Route 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Africa
: Mt Kenya
A classic, gutsy alpine climb right on equatorial East Africa. This is a bold, sometimes burly but constantly beautiful route that takes you to the roof of Kenya where jaw-dropping scenery sprawls beneath you in all directions. Any route on this African beast demands some mocksy--so quick is the word and sharp is the action. Embrace this old-school, rugged adventure of a lifetime"This is the classic route up the north side!From Kami Hut (4,400 meters), traverse south along the east side of the ...[more] Browse More Classics in International