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Mt. Irvine

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East Buttress T 
East couloir 

Mt. Irvine Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,786'
Location: 36.55611, -118.26354 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,451
Administrators: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Sep 8, 2014
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Mt Irvine and the impressive East Buttress with Up...

Access limited from May to October every year MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An overlooked peak near at the back of the Meysan Lakes drainage offering incredible views of the Whitney Massif from it's summit. Mt. Irvine has a number of class 3 scree scrambles up the east and north chutes, which are likely much more enjoyable as easy snow climbs in winter/spring. There is only one recorded technical route on the peak - the massive East Buttress V 5.9, rising over 2000' above Meysan Lake.

Getting There 

From the Meysan Lakes trailhead near the family campground in Whitney Portal, hike up the Meysan Lakes trail all the way to the back of the drainage. Multiple camping options exist - Camp Lake, Grass Lake, and Upper Meysan Lake (the closest). Overnight permits are required for overnight stays. Expect 3+ hours with overnight gear to get to Upper Meysan Lake.

Climbing Season

For the 13 - Whitney and Surrounding Peaks area.

Weather station 17.2 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Mt. Irvine
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunrise on the East Buttress of Irvine, with Meysa...

East Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  California : High Sierra : ... : Mt. Irvine
A big climb and a good exercise in route finding. The FA party graded the route III 5.7, but the subsequent second ascent team had a conflicting report. The first ascentionists were apparently known for serious sandbagging (two-day ascent = grade III?!). Described as a 17 pitch route elsewhere, we found 13 long pitches (~55 meter average) up the buttress to gain the final easy ridgeline to the summit. I've stuck with the grade listed in the Secor guidebook, but by modern standards this route is ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

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