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Mt. Hood

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cooper Spur T 
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Left Variation  
Elliot Glacier Headwall 
Leuthold Couloir T 
North Face Right Gully T 
Ravine T 
Reid Glacier Headwall 
Sandy Glacier Headwall T 
South Side Route T 
Sunshine Route 
West Crater Rim Route (WCR) 
Wy'East 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Optimator
Optimator, a great singletrack starts at the end of the Powerline Trail drops to the Multorpor Chair Near Government Camp, Oregon
Crane Creek
A traverse to Boulder Lake with tall pines. Near Government Camp, Oregon
Summit Trail #691
Summit Trail #691 travels from southwest of Government Camp to southeast through Skibowl Ski Area. Near Government Camp, Oregon
Crosstown Trail #755
Crosstown Trail gets you from one side of Government Camp to the other, along a fun, forested trail. Near Government Camp, Oregon
Pioneer Bridle Trail #795
Pioneer Bridle takes you from Government Camp to Rhododendron. Near Government Camp, Oregon
Gunsight Ridge
A rigorous ridge trail that has spectacular views of Mt. Hood. Near Government Camp, Oregon
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Mt. Hood Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,239'
Location: 45.3733, -121.6957 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 57,684
Administrators: Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006  with updates from brucelacroix and 2 more
Forecast:
Today

24° | 13°
Sunday

16° | 4°
Monday

5° | 0°
Tuesday

6° | 2°
Wednesday

18° | 16°
Thursday

28° | 13°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The Eliot Glacier at sunrise with Mt. St Helens in...

Description 

Mt. Hood is Oregon's tallest peak and is one of the most popular alpine summits in the world. This iconic mountain lies 70 miles east of Portland and is part of the Cascade Range. Glaciers lie on all sides.

Home to multiple ski areas and a National Forest, Mt. Hood receives a huge amount of use from outdoor enthusiasts all year. It provides the closest alpine climbing to Portland, as well as the closest skiing.

Getting There 

The direct route from Portland is easiest: Take I-84 to the Wood Village exit, take a right, and drive through Gresham and Sandy on Hwy. 26. Government Camp is the closest town to the mountain.

An alternate route takes I-84 East from Portland to Hood River, and then the Mount Hood Highway (Hwy. 35) South to join up with Hwy. 26.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.8 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Hood

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Hood:
South Side Route   PG13     Trad, Alpine, 5300'   
North Face Right Gully   WI3+ R     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 5300'   
Reid Glacier Headwall   AI3     Ice, Alpine, 2500'   
Leuthold Couloir        Trad, Alpine, 5300'   
Cooper Spur   X     Trad, Alpine, 5300'   
Devil's Kitchen Headwall (DKH) - Left Variation    AI3 PG13     Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 800'   
Sunshine Route        Alpine, 5300'   
Sandy Glacier Headwall   PG13     Trad, Alpine, 5300'   
West Crater Rim Route (WCR)        Alpine, 5500'   
Wy'East   Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c     Alpine, 5000'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Hood

Featured Route For Mt. Hood
Rock Climbing Photo: Crossing the Eliot Glacier.  The north face route ...

North Face Right Gully WI3+ R  OR : Mt. Hood
This elegant route is one of the best on the mountain. The crux is catching the line in condition. When the conditions are right, this is a spectacular climb that can have fantastic ice pitches up to WI4. Begin at Tilly Jane or Cloud Cap campgrounds. Follow marked climber trails through the trees. Moving above timberline climb onto a prominent ridge (the lower part of Cooper Spur) Continue up the ridge until you see a cairn on the right side of the trail marking a subtle path down onto the...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of Mt. Hood Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing rime ice on the Steel Cliffs, Mt. Hood, O...
Climbing rime ice on the Steel Cliffs, Mt. Hood, O...
Rock Climbing Photo: The beautiful north face of Hood with Eliot Glacie...
BETA PHOTO: The beautiful north face of Hood with Eliot Glacie...
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit
Summit
Rock Climbing Photo: The burn on the way up Tilly Jane, Mt Hood
The burn on the way up Tilly Jane, Mt Hood
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Cooper Spur from Tie-In Rock. Jan 15, 2...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Cooper Spur from Tie-In Rock. Jan 15, 2...
Rock Climbing Photo: speak softly and wear a loud shirt.  driving up to...
speak softly and wear a loud shirt. driving up to...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Hood as seen from the northeast.
Mt. Hood as seen from the northeast.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back at the other climbers.
Looking back at the other climbers.
Rock Climbing Photo: Look at all that fun to be had!!
Look at all that fun to be had!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Elliot Glacier in April 09, Saturday Afternoon
Elliot Glacier in April 09, Saturday Afternoon
Rock Climbing Photo: Glissading time.
Glissading time.
Rock Climbing Photo: Timberline Trail.
Timberline Trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers in the Old Chute.
Climbers in the Old Chute.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wildflowers on the Timberline trail.
Wildflowers on the Timberline trail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ice cave on Sandy glacier, Mt. Hood.
Ice cave on Sandy glacier, Mt. Hood.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steel Cliffs on Mountain Hood. One route has been ...
Steel Cliffs on Mountain Hood. One route has been ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Watching another climber make his way up.
Watching another climber make his way up.
Rock Climbing Photo: The burn on Tilly Jane, Mt Hood
The burn on Tilly Jane, Mt Hood

Comments on Mt. Hood Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Dec 18, 2006
According to recent news reports, this is the 2nd most climbed mountain in the world. Any clue as to the 1st?
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Dec 18, 2006
From what I've heard, Mt. Hood is the 2nd most glaciated mountain climbed in the world. Mt. Fuji is #1.
By Andrew May
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 11, 2007
Has anyone climbed Hood in August?
I'm considering it but it would be my first climb involving glacier travel and I'm not sure I'm up to it. Any thoughts?
Thanks.
By Nate Farr
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 6, 2008
Hood's not recommended in August because rockfall gets too bad. Most people would say up until June, and then again once the rock freezes up in the late fall.
By Roswell
From: Newnan. Ga
Dec 17, 2013
Conditions Mid-March to Mid-May and if possible to climb. Reliable source for checking conditions would be appreciated.
By Fred Knapp
May 16, 2014
Mt Hood: A Climber's Guide is now available. This is a fabulous book compelled by Bill Mullee with writing and input from over 30 Hood veterans, including Fred Beckey and Jim Wickwire!

Purchase it now and get a free 2-year subscription to the eBook!

stores.sharpendbooks.com/mt-ho...
By youlead514
May 26, 2015
Are there any "safer" routes that can be done in August? Getting off the main one would be nice anyway.