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Mt. Hoffman

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Hoffman's Thumb 
North East Ridge 
North Face, The 

Mt. Hoffman Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 10,856'
Location: 37.84693, -119.51168 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,086
Administrators: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chad Lawver on Oct 20, 2016
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Located in the geographical center of Yosemite National Park, Mt Hoffman contains scattered information about first ascents and potential routes. This page was created to collaborate efforts to define the routes and document first ascensionists. There are four main climbing areas; consisting of Hoffman's Thumb, Hoffman's Turret, The North Face, and The Approach Face.

Historical Ascents:
Class 2 Summit: Josiah Whitney, William Brewer, & Charles Hoffmann on Jun 24, 1863
Hoffman's Thumb - Regular Route 5.6 : Jules Eichorn on October 16, 1932 (P436 Peak's Passes and Trails)

Josiah Whitney in The Yosemite Book - "The view from the summit of Mount Hoffmann is remarkably fine, and those who have not time, or inclination, to visit the higher peaks of the main ridge of the Sierra are strongly advised to ascend this, as the trip from the Yosemite and back need only occupy two or three days; and no one who has not climbed some high point above the Valley can consider himself as having made more than a distant acquaintance with the High Sierra. This is a particularly good point for getting an idea of the almost inaccessible region of volcanic masses lying between the Tuolumne River and the Sonora Pass road"

Getting There 

For the standard Class 2 summit, hike to May Lake. From May Lake, take the unmarked trail to the left on the Southwest side of May Lake. This trail is well defined and will take you to the summit. This trail will provide access to Hoffman's Thumb, as well as The Approach Face.

To get to the North Face, take the slabs up and around to the Northeast of the summit on the Northeast side of May Lake. Descend the obvious valley toward the North Face. You must traverse a steep snow field to access the base. Depending on the snowfall, this could be incredibly dangerous. Do not approach this wall if you are not knowledgeable and experienced in snow travel.

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.3 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Mt. Hoffman
Rock Climbing Photo: 4th class, crack crux (~10-15')

NE Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b  California : Yosemite National Park : ... : North East Ridge
This is a fun outing which you likely have all to yourself. Fun scrambling on excellent rock. Some easy scrambling leads to a short hand crack (crux) and then a short chimney. Walk to the summit from there, back down the class 2 tourist trail....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

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By Chad Lawver
From: Yosemite Village, California
Oct 20, 2016
Research . . .

American Alpine Journal mentioning Merley Alley, Crimson Corner, and Hoffman's Turret


Summit Post listing the routes

TR Report of Merle Alley route

SuperTopo Forum

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