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The Gorge of Despair
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Mt. Harrington, North Ridge 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: Dave Hammack & Anton Nelson, July 1951
Season: Spring-Summer-Fall
Page Views: 2,585
Submitted By: Kristian Solem on Feb 7, 2011

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A friend on top

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>


No trip to The Gorge of Despair is complete without bagging Mt. Harrington via it's North Ridge on the way in or out. For any skilled rock climber this route is a short, exciting solo. Guidebooks give the climb a grade of class III, I would say that it is certainly class IV.

The summit is spectacular. From the top of Harrington the west ridge of The Monarch Divide, called Junction Ridge, drops about 9000 feet in 9 miles to Yucca Point where the South Fork of The Kings River joins with The Middle Fork.


Follow the approach as described on the Gorge of Despair page. From near the crest of Harrington Pass head left to get on the ridge.

Here Guy Keesee is approaching Harrington Pass under the
east Face of Mt. Harrington. The right skyline is the North Ridge route.


The 4th class rating is pretty stiff. A fun easy solo for an experienced climber, the route is very exposed and an inexperienced person might like a rope. The featured rock offers plentiful opportunities for protection and anchors.

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By limpingcrab
From: Visalia, CA
Nov 28, 2012

Really fun scramble. Not too bad if you drop right (west) when it gets harder.

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