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Mt. Gorgeous

Routes Sorted
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Born on the 4th of July S 
Build The Wall S 
Camel Straight S 
Cialis Stud S 
Cig-arete S 
Climb it Change S 
Commitment Issues S 
Crack Horror S 
Delicious S 
Family Jewel S 
Feel The Bern S 
Gorgeous S 
Joe's Bloody Finger Pocket S 
K-2 S 
Luscious S 
Marauding Monkeys S 
Pow! Right in the Kisser S 
Rush 'n' Reset S 
Swipe Right To Match S 

Mt. Gorgeous Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.09567, -118.72976 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 27,567
Administrators: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: veritus on Jan 3, 2007  with updates from Benjamin Chapman and 1 more
Forecast:
Today

83° | 49°
Tuesday

84° | 48°
Wednesday

74° | 48°
Thursday

67° | 48°
Friday

69° | 47°
Saturday

70° | 49°
You & This Area
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Description 

Mt. Gorgeous offers some of the longest routes at Malibu Creek State Park and has become one of the most popular destinations within the canyon. This area has a high concentration moderate climbs for the beginner to intermediate level sport climber. This side of the canyon stays in the shade in the morning and due to the canopy of trees the base of routes receive shade beyond midday. Some of the better routes feature short, powerful cruxes on steep terrain. A rack of 15 quickdraws, plus anchors, will be sufficient for climbing at Mt. Gorgeous. Be aware that bees/wasps frequently inhabit the pockets on this wall.

Getting There 

Find the 5.5 traverse. Follow the wall up and left into the canyon just after the traverse.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.9 miles from here

19 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',9],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Gorgeous

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Gorgeous:
Gorgeous   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Family Jewel   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Climb it Change   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Delicious   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Marauding Monkeys   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Feel The Bern   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Crack Horror   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Luscious   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 60'   
Camel Straight   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Build The Wall   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Pow! Right in the Kisser   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Joe's Bloody Finger Pocket   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Cialis Stud   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Gorgeous

Featured Route For Mt. Gorgeous
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber on Feel the Bern

Feel The Bern 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  California : Los Angeles Basin : ... : Mt. Gorgeous
Fact: the top 1% of climbers can climb over 95% of established routes while the bottom 90% can't even lead 5.11c. This is inherently unfair in a free (climbing) society! No one who climbs 40 hours a week should struggle to send this climb. The route starts off on some easy jugs up a slab (like climbing with a safety net), but the higher up you get, the more taxing this climb becomes. There are some rests to be found but it's all business to the top. A few long draws will help prevent rope drag. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Mt. Gorgeous Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Darnell on the steep.  Photo by Steve Cox
Dave Darnell on the steep. Photo by Steve Cox
Rock Climbing Photo: Tiffany leading "The Scorpion Crack" [de...
Tiffany leading "The Scorpion Crack" [de...
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex climbing on Mt. Gorgeous
Alex climbing on Mt. Gorgeous
Rock Climbing Photo: Section of Upper Gorgeous
BETA PHOTO: Section of Upper Gorgeous
Rock Climbing Photo: Gorgeous!
Gorgeous!
Rock Climbing Photo: The Scorpion Crack [defunct] with draws hung.  Sho...
The Scorpion Crack [defunct] with draws hung. Sho...

Comments on Mt. Gorgeous Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 20, 2007
It's the 5.0 traverse (the first traverse), if that, over the rock pool. The 5.5 traverse is further down the canyon, on the way to The Ghetto.

Morning shade, afternoon sun.
By ShaunG Gregg
From: SF, CA
Jan 3, 2010
There is a "newer" route on the far right of the wall. It starts climbing a flake then pulling onto a chossy slab. Does anyone know what this goes at and what it is called?
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Mar 26, 2010
According to RC.com it's called Scorpion Crack and goes at .11b. Still looked pretty chossy when I saw it several months ago, and it looked like it should be more in the 5.10 range once it cleans up, but I'll hold off judgment until I get on it.
By Michael Bartosek
From: Los Angeles
Nov 9, 2010
I've climbed Scorpion Crack - it has some glue/epoxy in places, but nothing came off. I took one fall on the onsight attempt and that was going for the 5th bolt and I just misjudged the distance. I'm inclined to think 5.10d for this route. It was fun to climb. The route immeadiately left of this is probably a 5.10b/c and is worth a go as well.
By skelldify
Dec 2, 2015
Wow, this area is hard to find. Luckily we ran into a couple that pointed it out to us. Immediately after the traverse (5.0, 5.5, who knows) there is a canyon that runs steeply up to the left (assuming you're facing upstream). It runs perpendicular to the stream and the main canyon. You have to scramble over some boulders to find it. That is where this area is.

We didn't even notice that there was a canyon there!

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