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Mt. Gilbert

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North Couloir (Engram Couloir) T 
South East Slope T 

Mt. Gilbert Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 13,106'
Location: 37.13742, -118.59774 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 488
Administrators: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Aug 31, 2015
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Natalie Brechtel soloing high in the Engram Couloi...


This is one of those peaks in the High Sierra with an actual North Face, and is far enough north to have a small glacier leading up to the 900 foot North Couloir a very popular and classic ice climb.

Getting There 

This climb and the scrambles up its south/east side can be accessed for the Bishop Pass trailhead, cutting off right to Treasure Lakes, for the north face do not go all the way to Treasure Lakes but head west beneath the foot of the north ridge and thence around into the north face bowl.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.6 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Mt. Gilbert
Rock Climbing Photo: The North Couloir in late June, 2016.  Photo by cl...

North Couloir (Engram Couloir) 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2  California : High Sierra : ... : Mt. Gilbert
Following the obvious, steep breach of the montain's north face, this is a steep line offering pleasant exposure, with sustained 60-65 degree snow/ice portions. It stands as one of the steepest couloirs in the High Sierra, save for Ice Nine and Mendel Right. Depending upon the snow year, a bottleneck of rock half way up may involve a few simple mixed moves to surmount. Upon reaching the top of the couloir, either take the 5.6 chimney to the summit. Or drop 40 feet to th...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

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