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Mt. Evans

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Alpine Lite Cliffs, The 
Aprons, The 
Black Wall, The 
Chicago Creek Rock 
Geneva Creek Crag 
Lincoln Lake Slabs 
Mount Evans, North Face 
Mt. Evans Bouldering 
Roofer Madness Wall 
Summit Lake Couloirs 
Tan Buttresses, The 
West Buttress 

Mt. Evans Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 14,264'
Location: 39.5886, -105.643 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 187,510
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Feb 17, 2002

44° | 31°

42° | 26°

34° | 23°

32° | 24°

37° | 25°

35° | 25°
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Evans Storm Shot2 - cool effect on it.


This is a beautiful area of alpine rock with minimal approaches where you can climb stellar, alpine, granite climbs up to 1400 feet and be done in time for lunch or launch into a full adventure with aid climbing at 12000+ feet. Some of the best quality alpine granite in the Front Range lies here. Free routes in the area like Roofer Madness, Lincoln Lake Apron, Jabba, Cheap Date, 2nd Apron Center, 3rd Apron Left, Road Warrior, Good Evans, Cary Granite, Space Miser see little traffic. Bouldering has become quite popular in recent years with 4 star problems like The Dali Sit Down Start, Seurat, and The Ladder. There is room for much more; however, tread lightly here as the terrain tolerates less abuse than lower areas. There may even be lines to do off Guanella Pass ascending to the Sawtooth Traverse. Routes have been put up on Mt. Warren. Aid routes on the overhanging sections of the Black Wall see rare repeats. There are also routes "down valley" from the Black Wall on Mt. Spaulding. Descents can be as demanding as sticking a thumb out as the tourist drive by. Beware of the usual summer lightning storms.

Getting There 

Take I-70 West of Denver to Idaho Springs. Exit 240 up the Mt. Evans Road brings you to Echo Lake. Follow the summit road to Summit Lake about 12,500 feet. Note you may be coerced to pay a toll fee (fee demonstration program) now that has increased to $10 or have a Parks Pass ($80) with the $15 hologram add on to make it a Golden Eagle Pass. They are staffing the toll collection site by 7:45am! Black Wall and Summit aprons are accessed by parking at the Summit Lake parking area.

There may be a way to insist on a pass without use of the Forest Service facilities for a fee-less visit to Mt. Evans. Apparently, you may be able to not use the parking areas like at Summit Lake and avoid the fee.


From the Denver Post: one can pay the new, increased user fee of $15. If one uses the Summit Lake area alone, a $5 fee for Denver Parks can be dissected out. If one uses the other areas including the summit but not Summit Lake, a $10 fee can be dissected out. If one is only driving without stopping, no fee is required.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

206 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',84],['2 Stars',74],['1 Star',30],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Evans

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Evans:
Timeline   V1 5 R     Boulder, Alpine, 25'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Last of the Ohitians   V1 5     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
The Ladder   V2 5+     Boulder, Alpine, 1 pitch, 10'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Dark Crystal   V3 6A     Boulder, Alpine, 16'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Maker's Mark   V5 6C PG13     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Downtrail Face   V6 7A     Boulder, Alpine, 14'   Mt. Evans Bouldering : Gateway Boulder
The Dali Stand Start   V6 7A     Boulder, Alpine, 10'   Area A : The Dali Area
Seurat   V8 7B     Boulder, Alpine   Area A : Seurat Area
The Dali Sit Down Start   V8+ 7B+     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : The Dali Area
Bierstadt   V9+ 7C     Boulder, Alpine, 14'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
2nd Apron Right Side   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 850'   The Aprons
Lincoln Lake Apron   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 350'   Lincoln Lake Slabs
Double Exposure   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'   Lincoln Lake Slabs
Rainbow Highway   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800'   The Black Wall
Road Warrior   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400'   The Black Wall
Good Evans   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, Grade II   The Black Wall
Jabba   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 110'   Lincoln Lake Slabs
Cary Granite   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 480'   The Black Wall
Undertow (free)   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Black Wall
Sinners On Sunday   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0     Trad, Aid, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700'   The Black Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Evans

Featured Route For Mt. Evans
Rock Climbing Photo: Gettysburg Address is on the right. Start on the f...

Gettysburg Address 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  Colorado : Alpine Rock : ... : Lincoln Lake Slabs
Climb the face through 3 bolts to a rest ledge, and get ready! Figure out the moves past the overlap, hang on, fire to the arête, and go to the top of the buttress! This is a wild ride. It has awesome holds in a supreme setting. Get on it!A TR can be set up from Pika on the right.Thanks to Kirk for finding the line and giving me the opportunity to get the FA. I will always remember this one....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Mt. Evans Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Damn dirty animals.
Damn dirty animals.
Rock Climbing Photo: Goats on the north face of Evans.
Goats on the north face of Evans.
Rock Climbing Photo: Evans summer storm pic.
Evans summer storm pic.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tundra and clouds near Summit Lake. Photo by Blitz...
Tundra and clouds near Summit Lake. Photo by Blitz...
Rock Climbing Photo: My contribution toward destroying the wilderness, ...
My contribution toward destroying the wilderness, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Clouds 'n' stuff near Summit Lake.
Clouds 'n' stuff near Summit Lake.
Rock Climbing Photo: summit lake
summit lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Speers on the Sawtooth.
Speers on the Sawtooth.
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch of Good Evans.  Photo by Trask Bradbur...
First pitch of Good Evans. Photo by Trask Bradbur...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Good Evans, Black Wall of Mount Evans....
Climbers on Good Evans, Black Wall of Mount Evans....
Rock Climbing Photo: It's a long way to Tipperary, It's a long way to g...
It's a long way to Tipperary, It's a long way to g...
Rock Climbing Photo: cliffs above Summit Lake
cliffs above Summit Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering near Lincoln Lake.
Bouldering near Lincoln Lake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Checkerboard left, don't fall on this one! I fell,...
Checkerboard left, don't fall on this one! I fell,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chip's project on the Checkerboard.
Chip's project on the Checkerboard.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Evans. Photo by Blitzo.
Mt. Evans. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tracy on Bierstadt's East Ridge.
Tracy on Bierstadt's East Ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: My brother on Emancipation left.
My brother on Emancipation left.
Rock Climbing Photo: BC at Evans.
BC at Evans.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the summit of Bierstadt onto the...
Looking down from the summit of Bierstadt onto the...
Rock Climbing Photo: The REAL climbers
The REAL climbers
Rock Climbing Photo: Tracy enjoying Bierstadt's early bird special, the...
Tracy enjoying Bierstadt's early bird special, the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bouldering on the Dali Block, Chicago Lakes Area.
Bouldering on the Dali Block, Chicago Lakes Area.
Rock Climbing Photo: The locals show off their profiles on Mt Evans....
The locals show off their profiles on Mt Evans....

Show All 38 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Mt. Evans Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 18, 2017
By BoulderGuy10
Feb 3, 2003
Mt. Evans has some sweet gneiss routes that span from 50 to hundreds of feet. Go to the Chicago Lakes, and on the trail you will be able to see the cliffs. There is awsome bouldering also in the area. Before you go, be sure to fully research.
By Shawn Shannon
From: Everett, WA
Feb 3, 2003
Generally, what time of year is climbing here accessible. I don't mind wet approaches, or cold temps, just good rock.... any advice??
By Furthermore
Sep 9, 2004
Does anyone know of any routes from the Chicago Lake basin near Mt. Evans or how solid the rock might be??
By Jer Collins
Apr 26, 2005
I've done a few routes from the Chicago Lakes basin. The rock is okay, and sometimes fantastic, but the logistics leave a little to be desired. At the lower lake, look East to Mt. Warren. This is "Windy City Wall" and the center buttress is "Sears Tower".
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 5, 2005
Can anyone give directions to the bouldering at Mt Evans? Much thanks CL
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 30, 2007
From the Rocky Mt News (4/29/7):

State chops down feds' fee for motoring up Mt. Evans.

by Steve Lipsher

The views along the Mount Evans Highway have been described as priceless, but for the past nine years the U.S. Forest Service has managed to nick as much as $10 from virtually every vehicle heading up the highest paved road in the country.

That practice will come to an abrupt end this summer. The Colorado Department of Transportation insists the federal government cannot charge for use of a state highway built and maintained with state tax dollars.

"We didn't know that they were charging everyone," said CDOT spokeswoman Stacey Stegman. "...It's illegal under state law."

The Forest Service began charging travelers at its Echo Lake entrance station in 1997 under the controversial federal fee-demonstration program, which has generated as much as $300,000 annually for upkeep of restrooms, picnic areas and safety patrols on the mountain.

Few visitors have understood that the fees don't apply to those traveling to and from the 14,126-foot summit parking lot who don't use Forest Service picnic areas and restrooms. In fact, a sign posted at the bottom of the winding, 28-mile road reads: "A pass is required for traveling beyond this point."

"They have been misrepresenting things. The average person would think that he had to pay," said Robert Funkhouser, president of the Western Slope No-Fee Coalition, an organization battling the federal government over fees for the use of public lands.

Forest officials dispute that characterization insisting the "pass" could be obtained free of charge. They acknowledge many people didn't discern the difference between acquiring a pass and paying a fee.

Drivers had to ask specifically about the pass or they would be charged the use fees.

Completed in 1927, the summer-only dead-end highway each year attracts an estimated 130,000 visitors.

This past winter, when the state and federal authorities began revisiting their agreement on the operation of Colorado 5, state officials learned every vehicle was being charged.

State officials demanded that the renewed agreement include signs indicating "No charge for travel on State Highway 5" and "USFS fees are not used to maintain State Highway 5."

The Forest Service balked, not wanting to pay for the signs.

"They're thinking "How are we going to get people to pay if they don't have to pay?" Funkhouser said.

The state intends to install signs with or without federal approval, according to e-mails obtained from Jay Kramer, a manager with CDOT.

With the traditional opening about a month away, forest supervisors haven't decided how the road will be managed, but possibilities include abandoning the entrance station and establishing permanent fee-collection stations at facilities maintained by the agency, said John Bustos, spokesman for the Arapaho and Roosevelt national forests.

The Forest Service also hasn't hazarded a guess on how much its budget will be cut if far fewer people pay.

Staff write Steve Lipsher can be reached at 970-51309495 or
By John Simpson
From: Golden, CO
Feb 12, 2008
Does anyone know if there have been any routes put up on the cirque that is below the Sawtooth on the non-Abyss lake side?
By Jason Haas
Feb 12, 2008
John, there's a photo of a new route on Evans in one of my photo albums if you click on my name and navigate down to the bottom of the page. I can fill you in on more details if you'd like sometime.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Feb 13, 2008
There are a few, apparently. One of the looks like this:
By Mark Kauz
From: Madison, WI
Jul 20, 2009
I would also like beta on the bouldering there. I know there is quite a bit, including Big Worm (V14), and Sunseeker (V13). Would anyone like to get some of the information about the boulders up or DM me about them for my upcoming trip to that area?
By 303scott
Aug 4, 2014
As of last weekend, Denver Mountain Parks has started charging $5 to park at Summit Lake. Don't know if you can avoid the fees by parking out on the road. It doesn't appear that there is any type of annual pass.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jul 25, 2015
As of 7/24/15, the road past Echo Lake is still closed.
By Nathan Ross
4 days ago
Are there any routes up Sawtooth Ridge?

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