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Mt. Evans Bouldering

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Mt. Evans Bouldering Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 11,000'
Location: 39.6598, -105.6049 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 63,654
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jul 24, 2009
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Gorillas In the Mist is a well known V11-ish probl...

The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climber MORE INFO >>>


The Mt Evans areas are quickly gaining recognition as some of the best bouldering in the country. Numerous world-class blocks litter the sprawling slopes of Colorado’s most accessible 14-er, and if not for a grueling, ‘never-again’ approach, this would be one of the most popular boulder fields in Colorado. The rock is stellar, highly featured granite, with excellent, rough texture, numerous incut edges, and the odd Tuolumne-esque knob.

Though the quality of the climbing is undeniable, there are numerous drawbacks. The approach is truly heinous for the most accessible boulders, and gets worse for the more remote areas. All of the blocks are situated over 10’000 feet (some higher), which makes the climbing season tragically short. Even during the peak summer season, days are often cut short by sudden thunderstorms, high winds, and snowfall. The sun is intense and the air is thin. Any injury is potentially serious as help is far away and retreat is long & involved. Mosquitoes and other pests are ubiquitous.

There are numerous distinct bouldering areas scattered across the slopes of the mountain, with the most popular being those along the Chicago Lakes Basin, a beautiful glacial valley northeast of the summit. Creatively named Area A, Area B, Area C & Area D, these areas are the most accessible and offer the bulk of the developed boulders. Most of the well-known problems, such as the Dali, Gorillas in the Mist, All Dogs Go to Evans, and Timeline, are found in Areas A & B. Excellent problems can also be found at Lincoln Lake, which is south of the paved highway CO-5.

The vast majority of the boulders are located within the Mount Evans Wilderness Area. Please read the access bulletin and abide by the instructions. This is an alpine environment! Inclement weather moves in fast, and approaching storm systems are often hidden behind the mountain until they are right on top of you. Be prepared for any conditions, to include snow & lightning. Dehydration occurs more quickly at higher altitudes; bring twice as much water as you think you’ll need.

Getting There 

Mt Evans is located ~30 miles west of downtown Denver. Take I-70 to the town of Idaho Springs, then follow CO-103 towards Mt Evans. For Areas A – C, park at the Echo Lake Picnic area, just west of mile marker 13. For Area D, follow the summit road (CO-5, $10/vehicle entrance fee may apply)to Summit Lake.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.7 miles from here

112 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',45],['2 Stars',36],['1 Star',19],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Evans Bouldering

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Evans Bouldering:
Timeline   V1 5 R     Boulder, Alpine, 25'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Last of the Ohitians   V1 5     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
The Ladder   V2 5+     Boulder, Alpine, 1 pitch, 10'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Canvas   V2 5+ R     Boulder, Alpine, 30'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Puddle Jumper   V2 5+     Boulder, Alpine   Area A : The Dali Area
Dark Crystal   V3 6A     Boulder, Alpine, 16'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Broken Arrow Right (FKA Anorexic Gymnast)   V4+ 6B+     Boulder, Alpine, 12'   Area A : Seurat Area
Ben's Arete   V5 6C     Boulder, Alpine, 16'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Maker's Mark   V5 6C PG13     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Cherry Top Rip (Name Unknown)   V5 6C     Boulder, Alpine, 10'   Area A : Seurat Area
The Dali Stand Start   V6 7A     Boulder, Alpine, 10'   Area A : The Dali Area
Downtrail Face   V6 7A     Boulder, Alpine, 14'   Gateway Boulder
Pink Fink   V7 7A+ PG13     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Peasants Into Leaders   V7 7A+ R     Boulder, Alpine, 30'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Seurat   V8 7B     Boulder, Alpine   Area A : Seurat Area
The Dali Sit Down Start   V8+ 7B+     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : The Dali Area
Bierstadt   V9+ 7C     Boulder, Alpine, 14'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Mirror Mask   V10- 7C+     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : The Dali Area
No More Greener Grasses   V12 8A+     Boulder, Alpine   Area A : The Dali Area
Big Worm   V14 8B+     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : The Dali Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mt. Evans Bouldering

Featured Route For Mt. Evans Bouldering
Rock Climbing Photo: Total Consciousness climbs this face.

Puddle Jumper V2 5+  Colorado : Alpine Rock : ... : The Dali Area
This balancy number is good line for finesse climbers that like to stand on their feet. There are some small crimps on this problem, but its never really necessary (or helpful) to bear down on them. Begin standing a few feet left of the arete at a big sloper at around thigh-height. Start with your right hand on the high crimp side pull in the seam, and the left hand on the highly chalked sloper. Stand up onto the face and work the sidepulls and rounded knobs up to the obvious horizontal rail...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

Photos of Mt. Evans Bouldering Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The view becomes distracting... so do the fearless...
The view becomes distracting... so do the fearless...
Rock Climbing Photo: Amazing rock!!!
Amazing rock!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Who knows this problem? It's in Area A, close to P...
BETA PHOTO: Who knows this problem? It's in Area A, close to P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Trail blazer at Mt. Evans.
Trail blazer at Mt. Evans.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chicago Basin's boulder pack moraine.
Chicago Basin's boulder pack moraine.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking down to the upper area of Chicago Basin fro...
Hiking down to the upper area of Chicago Basin fro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Turn off of the Chicago Lakes Trail here to access...
BETA PHOTO: Turn off of the Chicago Lakes Trail here to access...
Rock Climbing Photo: The "Trailside Boulder".  The fork for A...
BETA PHOTO: The "Trailside Boulder". The fork for A...
Rock Climbing Photo: Help preserve the excellent bouldering in this bea...
Help preserve the excellent bouldering in this bea...

Comments on Mt. Evans Bouldering Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 17, 2016
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jul 24, 2009
Great work on writing up these boulders!
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Aug 5, 2009
I'm shocked! I thought everyone and their mom was against letting information leak in this area. That's why I never put it up. People seemed to be vexed even when you mentioned the area a few years ago when it was first blowing up in popularity. We should tell everyone about areas B, C, D, the Arials, and Lincolin park too while we're at it maybe then we can stash enough pads to get Mt. Evans closed to climbing all together! I was personally asked to keep my mouth shut about the area a few years ago, by people associated with the NFS.

Don't get me wrong, I love documenting areas and making great finds accessable to other people. I'm just really surprised I guess, considering I stopped going to the area when all the commotion was going on just to try to prevent it from getting restricted or shut down. I've not been back in over 2 years and I live less then 1/2 an hour away! Now everyone and their mother will be there impacting it....

Thoughts? Have things changed that much in a few years?

BTW Timeline is classic for the grade IMO get on it!
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Aug 5, 2009
I think the consensus has changed towards providing accurate helpful information, especially after the Horan guide was published. I agree that the impact was substantial enough with just word of mouth, but I don't see the traffic really getting much worse with MP's info being added. Both Evans and RMNP (which I wrote up) are now pretty much out of fashion at this point, and I am fairly sure that nobody approves of pad stashing anywhere anymore. I think now it's better to have accurate descriptions of boulders and ample explanations of acceptable and unacceptable user practices provided along with that.
By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Aug 6, 2009
I've got no problems with putting it up as stated before, I was just surprised at the change in attitude I guess since I hadn't been back in so long as I figured it was already getting over run.
By Helldorado
From: Boulder, CO
May 27, 2010
Went here last summer, hoping for a quiet day of bouldering in a nice setting. I was greeted by several dogs and big, loud "elite" crews that didn't seem to mind painting huge tick marks, shouting beta, and throwing cigarette butts on the ground. Is an area "pristine" if everyone and their brother knows about it? I think not.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 28, 2010
Boulderers' conduct off the boulders will become an increasingly important issue for land managers, that's for sure. I agree it is hard to call people out on their conduct since nobody wants to be accused of being a dick. But it's definitely coming to that. There are respectful ways to boulder and disrespectful ways, and I hope a consensus is emerging, just like with pad stashing, that certain kinds of conduct are just not acceptable anymore. Dogs, noise, trash, excessive chalk use, and crowds are just a few of these habits. Being a "good" boulderer justifies nothing that disrespects the environment, the rock, or the people around you.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jun 9, 2011
Found a chalk bucket today at Mount Evans Area A. ID it and likely location, and I will get it to you.
By Fred Knapp
Jul 12, 2011
Jamie Emerson's new bouldering guide to RMNP and Mt.Evans is at the printer. We are air freighting some advance copies for pre-purchases. If you order now, you can get a free printable eBook and get an early copy in about three weeks. Supplies will be limited. The bulk shipment will follow by a few weeks.
By Joe Collins
Jun 1, 2012
Anyone been up to Area A yet this season? Relatively clear of snow?
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jun 1, 2012
Joe, the snow is not a problem but the trail is kind of a pain owing to blown down trees. It's not a big deal. Area A is going to be too hot soon though.
By Mikeco
From: Golden, CO
Aug 3, 2012
Please consider not using chalk on the boulders that are near the trail or lakes. Other wilderness users may find the chalk marks distasteful, which can lead to complaints and regulations on climbers. Despite getting a good amount of traffic, the Chicago Lakes area still has a sense of pristine, alpine beauty. And yes, I'm a climber and boulderer, but I don't like to see these boulders chalked. Most climbers wouldn't want to see a hiker spray paint his name on a boulder, so perhaps boulderers might consider whether chalking the boulders is similarly offensive.
By SusanO
Jun 11, 2013
Went Bouldering in the Beirstadt area (area A) this past Sunday 6/9/13 and lost a royal blue, Patagonia, light weight, puffy jacket. Either someone walked off with it by mistake or it was stolen (lame) from a velcro pocket in my crash pad that was at the warm-up problem "The Ladder". Please respond if you have any info. There is no way it fell out of my pad as it was in a velcro pouch, and there was someone walking behind me the whole way out. Thanks!
By Alex Kaiser 1
Jul 17, 2016
Found an iPhone just past Beirstadt Boulder on Friday July 15. I charged it and turned it on, maybe find my iPhone will work. If the owner sees this comment, respond with the phone color and the dog in the background. I'd be happy to get you your phone. Cheers.

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